Phil’s Oyster Bar has been an institution in Baton Rouge for decades. Beginning on Government Street in the ’50s, Phil’s has gone through a few location changes since. Years after closing its Concord Avenue spot in 2007, the restaurant finally found new digs in the Southdowns Shopping Center, opening in September 2016 to much fanfare.
The restaurant’s exterior looks much like the original storefront. Painted lettering on the windows and exposed bulb lighting gives it a distinct vintage flair. Inside, the vibe continues with white penny tile floors and posters of such notables as Lionel Richie in full ’80s swagger.
The restaurant’s name is a little misleading, though—Phil’s is so much more than oysters. Case in point: the Stuffed Crab Balls appetizer. The first thing I noticed about the crab balls was the creamy texture. The second was the overt but pleasant saltiness that was tamed by the wonderful housemade spicy remoulade. The thin, crisp coating added a bit more spice and rounded out the dish.
Stuffed Crab Balls are a must on the appetizer menu.
I was intrigued by The Antoinette Salad, especially the addition of fried onions. Lightly seasoned soft crabmeat topped crisp iceberg lettuce. The onions weren’t battered but still deep fried to offer sweet, earthy highlights to the savory crab. The overt richness made it a one-biter for me, though.
Speaking of rich, the Crabmeat Caroline had my heart palpitating. Covered in melted cheddar with abundant heavy cream, this crab/butter bomb is what most au gratins should aspire to. This was the go-to dish back in the day, and it should be one of your reasons to visit now. The side salad was just standard fare, but its bright, oniony housemade Italian salad dressing should be bottled and sold.
A firm yet flakey black drum was the Fresh Fish of the Day. The filet was dusted and grilled with what appeared to be a blackened seasoning. But what made this entree was the slightly sweet, heavily spiced Creole butter sauce that had a definite Worcestershire influence.
The side of steamed mixed vegetables was a refreshing alternative, though they were overcooked. This dish came with two sides, so I also ordered the hush puppies and found the use of white rather than yellow cornmeal offered a lighter crumb with plenty of corn sweetness.
Our server highly recommended her favorite dish, Catfish Jeannine. We chose it grilled instead of fried and found a similar seasoning on the filet as on the drum. The crawfish etouffee topping was properly seasoned with plump, fresh-tasting tails. A Cajun dish supreme.
Crabmeat Caroline is the restaurant’s signature crabmeat au gratin topped with cheese.
Catfish Jeannine comes grilled or fried and topped with crawfish etouffee.
The restaurant goes through about 80 sacks of oysters a week.
Dessert was definitely in order after all the savory butter and cream dishes. Being an old-school establishment, we felt it wrong to bypass the bread pudding. After one bite I wished I had let it be, finding it excessively dense with far too many raisins. The icing-like topping was grainy and way too sweet. My partner found it good, not great, with the topping being off-putting. But our friend, whose favorite cake is cake, had zero complaints.
On the other hand, the Ooey Gooey Chocolate Chip Pie was a true contender for one of the best pies I’ve had. The pale pie crust was a treasure of sweet buttery crispness. The luscious custard filling was smooth and light with just enough bittersweetness from the dark chocolate chips. As all good pies should be, it was crowned with a light whipped cream.
Old-school establishments sometimes fall out of favor but rarely out of style. Phil’s is conclusively in favor with locals and definitively in style. With a new—and what appears to be permanent—home, I’d bet it’ll be around for many years to come.
The basics: The longtime local favorite shuttered for nearly 10 years before brothers Anthony and Jordan Piazza reopened it in a new spot in September 2016. The brothers made a commitment to serving their family’s popular dishes as close to the original way as possible, right down to the soft po-boy bread that departs from traditional New Orleans French bread.
What’s a must: Get the Stuffed Crab Balls as an appetizer to dip in the housemade spicy remoulade. Don’t miss the cheesy au gratin Crabmeat Caroline or the Catfish Jeannine smothered in crawfish etouffee. Round it all out with raw or chargrilled oysters.
Our food critic’s name may be false, but the credentials are not. This gastronome has studied the history, cultivation, preparation, science and technology of food for more than 30 years.
This article was originally published in the August 2018 issue of 225 Magazine.
