Superior Grill

5435 Government St. 927-2022

Saturday and Sunday, 7 a.m. to 2 p.m.

All credit cards

Reservations not accepted

The ambience: Just like lunch and dinner, but more relaxed

Lunch: You can roll up at 1:30 p.m. and still get an omelet.

Kid-friendly: Sí seńor

Renowned for some of the city’s favorite fajitas, stiff margaritas and a packed happy hour, Government Street anchor Superior Grill got into the breakfast business for the first time earlier this year. While the joint rocks loud with live music on the weekends, its Saturday and Sunday mornings are decidedly quieter, lazy affairs. Offered are breakfast spins on Tex-Mex classics like burritos, nachos and quesadillas, and more traditional fare like pancakes, French toast, bacon and omelets.

A leisurely and loaded breakfast can certainly set the tone for a great weekend, and Superior Grill steps up to give Baton Rouge another chance to start our Saturdays (be they busy or blah) with a good hot meal.

THE REVIEWS

The Not-So-Vegetarian

Sure I eat meat, but I prefer vegetarian cuisine.

I’d recommend:

Veggie and Monterrey Cheese Omelet ($8.95). This was a hearty clash of stringy spinach, oozing cheddar and herby goodness. The guts were like a party dip, which makes tortilla chips handy. The eggs embracing the veggies were buttery, but not overpowering, especially when I spooned pico de gallo on top.

Fresh fruit cocktail ($4.95). A generous mound of diced strawberries, cantaloupe and red grapes. Our waiter artistically pieced together the fresh fruit; it looked like a flower on a saucer, making me a believer that Superior’s secret ingredient in every dish is love.

Mexican chocolate ($1.95). A big cup of frothy deliciousness. This Mexican sipping treat is beaten with milk and sprinkled with cinnamon.

I’d avoid:

Mexican Sausage ($2.50): Though I prefer eating vegetarian when dining out, I do enjoy sampling meat if it’s different, so I picked off my friend’s plate. Disappointingly, it tasted like ground beef with taco powder cooked into it, as if it was made in a hurry.

Chips and salsa (complimentary): No use in filling up your belly on chips and salsa. It’s best to use the chips as a tool to scoop up the messy parts of a main entrée, and the salsa to jazz up your eggs.

The bottom line:

Superior gets high marks for bringing a scrumptious breakfast with a Mexican twist to Baton Rouge. The best part about a hurt-yourself brunch is the nap that follows.

The Meat Eater

Just because it’s before noon, doesn’t mean the animals get off easy.

I’d recommend:

Steak & Eggs ($13.50). Nothing starts the weekend off like a warm injection of antemeridian protein. Though the scrambled eggs were slightly undercooked, the large tender slab of skirt steak was delicious, largely because it avoided the obvious pitfall of tasting identical to a smoking fajita. It was cooked juicy medium and tasted mild enough that it mixed well with a big breakfast spread.

Mexican Sausage ($2.50). This spicy stuff is ground like taco meat and served in a side bowl. It is perfect for mixing in with the golden, crispy hash browns and eggs, making each of those better.

Hash Browns ($2.35). These little nuggets were crispy without being overly greasy.

I’d avoid:

Scrambled eggs. There is a reason you can’t order these by themselves. They just aren’t Superior’s specialty. The middle section of mine ran a little, forcing me to fork around the edges.

Biscuits ($1.95). The menu says two, but I was only served one (buzzkill!), and it was a standard “hotel biscuit,” the kind you get at the free continental buffet.

The bottom line:

Superior Grill is a relaxing and still undiscovered spot for a solid weekend breakfast. The hostess will even bring the table a free newspaper on request. The service was kind of slow for such a small crowd, but the prices are reasonable, and the Mariachi music is a nice soundtrack for a sunny Saturday morning.

The Adventurer

Food should be more than just a meal. It should be exciting.

I’d recommend:

Asking your server for suggestions (priceless). This menu goes beyond your typical eggs and bacon breakfast. Being unfamiliar with many of the unique offerings, I found the waiter’s advice invaluable when placing my order.

Chilaquiles con carne ($8.95). According to the waiter this mix of scrambled eggs, onions, tortilla strips, Monterey Jack cheese, ranchero sauce and sour cream is the best seller on the breakfast menu, and it’s easy to see why after one bite. It’s definitely a dish packed with a variety of flavors and textures, not to mention the perfect amount of spice.

Hash Browns ($2.35). Huge hunks of perfectly golden potatoes sautéed with onions and spices offered a slightly more mild retreat from flavor-packed chilaquiles. A perfect pairing.

I’d avoid:

Ordering coffee ($1.95). The rich flavor of coffee just doesn’t seem to jive with all of the spicy menu options.

Plain ‘ol toast (offered with the meal). Ditch the toast and opt for the biscuits instead. You won’t be sorry.

The bottom line:

It’s hard to be adventurous when it comes to breakfast, but Superior doesn’t disappoint. Everything is flavorful and spicy, plus you’ve got a free pass to eat chips and salsa before noon.