Our food critic’s name may be false, but the credentials are not. This gastronome has studied the history, cultivation, preparation, science and technology of food for more than 30 years.
Many restaurants fly under the radar in Baton Rouge. An impressive example is French Market Bistro.
This long-standing hidden gem has been holding court for years in an upscale shopping complex at the far end of Highland Road.
On the Wednesday night we chose to dine, our two-person party was seated at a huge four-top; at the time, there was little else available in the busy restaurant. We had a clear vantage point to the front door to hear the host make every effort to accommodate a party of three that arrived without a reservation. Within minutes, they were led to a table in the back.
Impressive service aside, French Market’s following is thanks to the work in the kitchen. Two female juggernauts are churning out the cuisine.
Steak Special with Potatoes Fondant, asparagus, and horseradish and shallot compound butter.
For a decade, chef de cuisine Megan Nealy, a graduate of Johnson & Wales’ culinary program, has been creating dishes that shine. Assisting Nealy is Leslie Teel, head line chef, who has earned her position with tenacity and a desire to showcase her artistic talents through food. In a realm normally dominated by men, these two are a force to be reckoned with.
The evening we dined, the Market Fresh Soup special was a turkey and wild rice concoction. Thick rather than brothy, it was like rice and gravy in a soup cup—comforting on a cool evening.
Another noteworthy item on the evening’s off-menu board was the Steak Special. The pungent horseradish-and-shallot compound butter oozed over the medium-rare meat, the butter mixing freely with the beef juices and creating more layers of complex flavor.
Nothing goes so well with steak as potato, but this was no ordinary potato preparation. Potatoes Fondant is a hybrid of the crispiest roasted and creamiest baked spuds all rolled into one savory side. Delectable brown gravy reminiscent of demi-glace was draped on top. It was a novel reformation of meat and potatoes.
Kahlua Cheesecake with Kahlua liqueur and bittersweet chocolate chips.
Aside from the specials, the Lobster Crêpes stood out. Delicate crêpes oozed with creamy ricotta. The chefs took it even further with a double-play of mascarpone and cream sauce on top.
Our server at French Market Bistro delivered the dessert menu along with an off-menu addition that both awed and delighted us: a White Chocolate Peppermint Creme Brulee. So many restaurants serve creme brulee, but the unconventional addition of peppermint paired with the sweetness of white chocolate uplifted the commonplace confection to a minty luxury.
The Kahlua Cheesecake came highly recommended by our server, too. With Kahlua liqueur and bittersweet chocolate chips, this slice of bliss was rich without overt sweetness, dense without being unwieldy and diminutive enough to not overburden. It seemed obvious that the kitchen takes dessert seriously. With so many dining establishments outsourcing their dessert menus, it is invigorating not only to see a wide selection of housemade offerings, but to have them so well executed.
The superb environment, staff and food made us yearn for more time to linger. But with the work week only halfway done, the swiftness of our dinner was appreciated.
The restaurant has big changes on the horizon, with an expansion into a next-door space that began earlier this year. The expansion will include a new bar area, temperature-controlled wine room and private dining spaces.
With that in mind, I see a weekend date night at French Market Bistro in my very near future.
The daily specials at French Market Bistro offer an opportunity to see where the restaurant’s chefs really shine.
16645 Highland Road • 753-3500 • Open Mondays, 11 a.m.-2 p.m.; Tuesdays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5:30 p.m.-9 p.m.; Fridays-Saturdays, 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m.; closed Sundays. frenchmarketbistro.com
