It is difficult to separate Tallulah’s current state as the glittering nightlife extension of Renaissance Hotel’s massive Las Vegas-sized lobby with the Swaggart-abandoned, graffiti-tagged squatters’ lair it was for far too many years prior. The before-and-after mental comparisons are nothing short of stupefying, like beholding the wonder of the Taj Mahal then being told it was once a landfill.
Named through a Facebook contest, the restaurant takes its every culinary cue from the Bayou State, drawing together a wide array of Louisiana flavors under the modern hand of the hotel’s executive chef, Andy Papson. A Navy veteran who worked alongside James Beard Award-winner Thomas Wolfe in New Orleans, Papson offers guests breakfast, lunch and dinner menus with Creole flair, from praline-topped pancakes to Louisiana crab cakes to a decadent “fork and knife” burger, plus house-made chocolates and inventive cocktails.
Find out what our secret diners thought of Tallulah by scrolling down.
The Louisiana Purchaser
I’m looking for a great meal that’s also a deal
I’d recommend:
Louisiana Blue Crab Soup ($5 for cup; $8 for bowl). With a nice kick reminiscent of a hot summer crab boil, this soup scored on texture and taste. Not too creamy, the fresh crabmeat really came through on the spoon, with plump sweet notes to complement the red-peppery flair.
Seared Red Fish ($23). Not for the spice-averse. Wow, this Cajun-bred red fish packed a wallop of intense heat, which I absolutely loved. Rarely does a classic seafood dish challenge the palate like this, but I was sure glad it did. Water is on the table for a reason, and this tasty fish was worth every necessary sip. The skillet-fired haricots verts and smooth quiche-like cornmeal hash were a fantastic combination of sides.
Creme Brulee ($6). I can’t tell you how many fine dining restaurants that have delivered brilliant meals to my table, only to sink mightily with a less-than-average creme brulee. Thankfully, Tallulah delivered a perfectly light meal-ender by avoiding the common egg-tasting pitfall and creating a vanilla-infused custard with a golden sugary ceiling and fresh berries. Simple and delicious.
Not my taste:
Cracked Pepper Cheese Puffs ($7). The photo Tallulah posted to Facebook had me drooling for these golden, muffin-shaped goodies hours before my visit. Unfortunately, looks can be deceiving, and these beauties were little more than a bland waste of carbs.
The bottom line:
This is one of my new favorite restaurants for its bold, eclectic style and vast menu and romantic setting in a truly first-class hotel. I felt like I was on vacation through the whole meal. It’s hard to put a price tag on that.
The NOLA Strolla
So maybe I’m a little spoiled by Nawlins cuisine
I’d recommend:
Louisiana Crab Cakes ($12). These had a substantial and complex texture instead of the mushy state of some crab cakes I’ve ordered. They were the perfect way to start the meal, with everyone at the table having a good taste of the seafood delights to come from Tallulah.
Sea Bass ($24). This fresh sea bass was lightly seasoned, a wise choice that allowed the flavor of the fish to dominate the dish. The sea bass was flaky, moist and delicious. The wilted spinach—a superb and easy veggie dinner I often cook up at home—was lightly sautéed in butter and olive oil and was a great companion to the fish.
The House Chocolates ($8). Our friendly waiter told me this was a dessert special, but it is so good you should ask about its availability on your visit. Truly showing the hand of a master chocolatier at work, this plate of sweets included dark chocolates filled with a variety of sweet, decadent centers. All were so delicious I was moved to check with the waiter again just to confirm they were made in-house. They were.
Not my taste:
Roasted Oysters ($9). I’m a little spoiled from my days frequenting Drago’s in New Orleans, but these oysters were a bit dry and bland and did not match the quality of the rest of the meal.
The bottom line:
This place offers a truly fun night out in a beautiful setting at the Renaissance. The seafood dishes especially were spot-on and devoured. The service was solid and staff helpful throughout the night. Plus, the Bloody Marys were excellent. I drank two.
The Gourmet Grazer
I love small, artisan bites and trying a little bit of everything
I’d recommend:
Louisiana Crab Cakes ($12). These had just enough hearty crisp on the outside to perfectly balance the sweet, tender blue crab on the inside. The accompanying house beer mustard sauce was amazing and really added a unique flavor to this traditional South Louisiana dish.
Pancetta Scallops ($26). What is not to love with this dish? It has crispy pancetta, full of flavor, dancing around several large seared scallops. All of this sat on top of a parmesan-crusted potato cake. This one will not leave you hungry, that’s for sure.
Caprese Salad ($11). This large starter was a custom trio of fresh mozzarella, basil and heirloom tomatoes. The twist? It came with a fresh tomato water shooter. Don’t be alarmed. I took mine when I finished the salad—as suggested by the waiter—and my taste buds sang praises to the chef. Sure, it sounded odd at first, but this refreshing idea worked perfectly with the dish.
Not my taste:
Creme Brulee ($6). This dessert was tasty, but there was nothing particularly exciting about it, which is what I expected given the inventiveness of the aforementioned tomato shooter. Maybe this relatively new restaurant has not yet hit its pastry stride.
The bottom line:
Tallulah offers a fun and different night out that feels unique to anything else in Baton Rouge. The huge red seats are super-cozy, the menu is eclectic and fresh and the staff was both helpful and prompt.
