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Hot Lunch: O-Ya-Ya’s

In spite of our location in the middle of a deeply fertile farming parish, Baton Rouge restaurants have never really focused on freshness. Happily, this seems to be changing, and places like Chef Kevin Black’s O-Ya-Ya’s will likely lead the way. Located in the rear of The Courtyard Gifts and Interiors, O-Ya-Ya’s is disarming and pleasantly unhurried, more like a slightly cluttered living room than a starchy bistro. Aesthetics aside, O-Ya-Ya’s makes playful and creative interpretations of Creole standards while also preparing novel dishes. The Andouille and Shrimp Stuffed Eggplant Soup (cup $4.75, bowl $7.75) came highly recommended and began the meal well. The chefs have managed to balance the richness and smoky complexity of an étouffée without the attendant heaviness. This soup is deep, satisfying and subtle. Click here to learn more about O-Ya-Ya’s fresh approach.—Frank McMains