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Fat Cow – Restaurant review

With garage-style glass doors and a cozy, air-conditioned patio, Fat Cow is not the typical burger joint. Its rustic chic design and open-kitchen layout reveals a place dedicated to providing a real gourmet twist to the traditional American sandwich. Owned and operated by Natchez couple Doug Hosford, a trained chef, and his wife Karry, Fat Cow opened at the South Gates of LSU last August. The restaurant offers artisanal and seasonal salads and milkshakes alongside a wide variety of burgers and chicken sandwiches sporting rare but welcome toppings like olive salad, fresh arugula, Brie, other artisan cheeses and more. There is even the Hundred Dollar Burger, topped with foie gras, balsamic vinaigrette, Parmesan and truffle oil, for $15.

Embracing its collegiate-friendly locale, Fat Cow is open for late-night dining.

Scroll down to find out what our secret diners thought of Fat Cow.

The Cajun Connoisseur

I love down-home cookin’ and adventurous eats.

I’d recommend:

The 120 Burger ($8.25): I have no idea to whom or what the name refers, but they should have called it the “everything” burger, as it combines salty, sweet and savory in each delectable bite. Caramelized onions are a perfect complement to the bite of the horseradish mayo, and the fresh greens add a magnificent crunch.

Creole Cream Cheese Malt ($4.99): Best saved for dessert, this malt is thick, cold and creamy—and tastes exactly like a spread of sweet, slightly tangy Creole cream cheese. Two words: Nailed it.

Duck Fat Fries ($4.99): With a heaping helping of cheese and garlic on top of the eponymous fowl fat used to lend the fries their savory flavor, this intense side adds an extra-decadent dimension to the typical burger meal.

Not my taste:

Onion Straws ($3.99): The first couple of bites were delicious, but the gargantuan heap of wafer-thin onion straws lost their appeal fast—pretty soon all I was able to taste was quease-inducing salt and oil. Disappointing.

The bottom line:

With a menu that effectively combines basic great ingredients and innovative toppings, decent prices and a terrific location just outside of LSU, Fat Cow is a winner from every angle.

Not-so-grounded Chuck

I like my burgers with a twist.

I’d recommend:

The Smokestack with Grilled Chicken Breast ($8.25). I’ve had a lot of burgers here, but their very best sandwich is the Smokestack made with Fat Cow’s succulent balsamic-marinated grilled chicken. Topped with sharp cheddar cheese and a mound of crispy purple onion straws and drizzled in mesquite BBQ sauce, this big boy with even bigger flavor is worth every single carb and calorie.

Burger with Brie and Apple Slices ($8.25). My wife and I make these at home with ground turkey, and I found this crunchy-smooth combo at Fat Cow was my favorite among their long list of additional toppings. I’d love this one served as a set of small sliders, and while eating, I wondered why Fat Cow has not embraced that trend.

Fat Cow Fries ($2.99). One order is plenty for two to share, but good luck fighting for the last one of these delicious, fresh-cut and sea-salted fries.

Not my taste:

Chocolate Malt ($3.99). I felt a little like John Travolta in Pulp Fiction complaining about the price. Typically a sweet home run after a salty burger and fries, this dessert was served much too melty for my taste.

The bottom line:

Fat Cow has a lot going for it: a creative menu, a great location and a well-designed inside-out atmosphere. While the flavor of the burgers is outstanding, my issue is the dense consistency of the machine-pressed patties. Burger patties should be formed by hand, loosely packed and tender. It’s a shame, because the flavor and the fries would otherwise make this one of my favorite burger joints in Baton Rouge.

Boots

Don’t mess with my burger, my boots or Texas.

I’d recommend:

Adding Meat to Your Salad ($2.99). Sure, the sign says Fat Cow Burgers and Salads, but who are you kidding? This is no place for a vegan. So, if you must go green, add some grilled meaty goodness on top. I had a hand-ground Angus patty, which was like a nice, savory steak. Other grilled choices are balsamic chicken breast, portabello mushroom and salmon.

Onion Straws ($3.50). These are savory, intensely salty and just about the best, crispiest onion strings I’ve ever tasted.

Vanilla Malt ($3.99). Creamy beyond description and bursting with sweet, malty flavor, this decadent dessert drink sets off the salty, savory burgers nicely. But be warned, by the time you add one of these and a side, your burger lunch will push twenty bucks.

Not my taste:

Cochon Salad ($7.99). Composed of baby spinach leaves and a few cherry-sized tomatoes tossed in bacon sherry vinaigrette, this salad would be completely forgettable if not for the fabulous onion straws atop it, or the aforementioned grilled beef patty.

The bottom line:

Savory burgers, decadent accompaniments and a cool, open atmosphere—plus a nice patio, although beware of the hungry yellow jackets—Fat Cow will satisfy your gourmet burger jones and make for a memorable meal.