Enoteca Marcello’s

The Ambiance: Classy neighborhood bar

Kid-friendly: No

Lunch: Yes

4205 Perkins Rd. • 379-7662

Tuesday through Saturday, 5:30 to 10 p.m.

Lunch on Friday only, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Reservations accepted • All credit cards

When Marcello’s Wine Cellar owner Gene Todaro opened Enoteca Marcello’s Wine Bar this past April, where the alternately loved and loathed Southdown’s Lounge had stood for decades, it capped the completion of an extreme makeover at the Southdowns Village shopping center on Perkins Road. With traditional and fusion dishes cultivated by his Italian father, the proprietor of Marcello’s Wine Market & Café in Lafayette, Todaro’s new bar and restaurant became a quick hit among the after-work dinner crowd. The comforting, thoughtful atmosphere complements the cuisine with whimsical vintage prints and black-and-white framed photographs from the Old Country. In the separate dining room, bespoke strips of cream linen canopy gather at the ceiling and dip toward diners below. It’s just one of the many elements Todaro designed himself. Turn the page to see what our secret diners thought of Enoteca Marcello’s.

The Purist

I’m as Italian as they come.

I’d recommend:

Baked Oysters ($14). Baked oysters nestled in a unique composite of traditional Italian ingredients make this any true Italian’s go-to favorite. Highlighted with eggplant, tomato and fennel, this savory broth alone will have you soaking every last piece of focaccia bread on the table. Ohhh, so Italian.

Bresaola ($9.50). Most restaurants’ take on this dish tastes more like a glorified version of deli meat, but not this restaurant. It’s subtle in taste—as it is meant to be—with just the right pops of flavor thanks to the drizzles of EVOO (extra virgin olive oil) and sharp, shaved Pecorino Romano atop. This Napolitana is happy to see Marcello’s get it right!

Anna Tutta Panna ($6). I fell in love with the name of this dessert. After I tasted it, I practically slipped into a trance. If Marcello’s ambiance won’t get you there, then this heavenly amalgamation of caramel, whipped cream and mouth-puckering amaretto will. It’s worth feeling completely stuffed to the gills for.

I’d avoid:

Spaghetti Bolognese ($12). This entrée has commercial written all over it and nothing you would find on the dinner table in an authentic Italian home. Pasta this overcooked and sauce that tastes too much like sugar should never be used to exemplify Italian cuisine.

The bottom line:

Enoteca Marcello’s has a modern and creative energy that runs through it and is just as crucial to its success as their food. Despite my one disappointing dish, this cantina-like restaurant did this Italian proud.

Mr. Classico

I just want the staples.

I’d recommend:

Mac-n-cheese ($9). I am a bit apprehensive about anything with truffle oil because chefs usually don’t know when to quit with it. But this delicate pasta dish was balanced perfectly. A light cream sauce simmered with plenty of garlic made this an incredible appetizer that’s perfect for sharing.

Caesar Salad ($4). The biggest surprise was the crispy, caramelized chunks of deep-fried seasoned eggplant that replaced the traditional dried bread crouton. It is one of the best Caesar salads I have had in a long time.

Tiramisu ($7). If you purposely do not order tiramisu because of a caffeine rush from the layers of ladyfingers soaked in espresso, you are in luck. This Italian favorite is instead moistened with an amaretto syrup that was surprisingly wonderful on the fork and accompanied by fluffy layers of marscarpone cheese.

I’d avoid:

The cheese shaker. The art of hand-grating cheese fresh from the block is one of the most generous acts a server can perform for my Italian meal. My table’s pasta dishes, however, were delivered with a grated cheese garnish, and a bland cheese powder was left on the table to shake over our dinners. One of my few disappointments.

The bottom line:

This is a New York-style Italian restaurant I never thought would ever be seen in Baton Rouge. The food was very good, and each dish was unique.

Louisiana Lagniappe

Yeah, but how’s the seafood?

I’d recommend:

Asparagus & Tomato Minestrone ($4). I love that Marcello’s calls its selections “Yesterday’s soups.” Soup definitely tastes better the day after it is made. I cherish a good cup of gumbo—and with a healthy dose of chopped asparagus, fresh tomato and zesty black pepper, this was an intensely satisfying starter.

Baked Oysters ($14). I’m always curious to see what Italian places do with fresh Louisiana catch. Basted in a savory butter and olive oil sauce, these oysters were tender and worked perfectly on top of the lightly fried golden bread squares served on the side.

Anna Tutta Panna ($6). I don’t know who Anna is, but she must be a special lady. Not only had I never seen a homemade caramel pudding like this, but I’ve rarely tasted something that so literally melted in my mouth. Tongue-tantalizingly creamy, but not too sweet, this thick caramel is topped simply with fresh cream and a splash of amaretto.

I’d avoid:

Shrimp Pepate ($18). Eight Gulf shrimp were the highlight of this crushed red pepper and garlic pasta that unfortunately didn’t hold together. The sauce—light and mild already—was broken and pooled at the bottom of the dish, leaving the shrimp, fresh garlic slices and toasted pine nuts high and dry up top.

The bottom line:

Enoteca Marcello’s captures that homey, neighborhood vibe so well I forgot I was dining in a strip center. I don’t think I’ll try another shrimp dish here, but the rest of my meal was impressive, especially the delicious desserts.