DiGiulio Brothers Italian Café

2903 Perkins Rd. • 383-4203

Monday through Saturday, 5:30–10 p.m., Sunday brunch, 10:30 a.m.–2 p.m.

Visa, MasterCard • Reservations not accepted

The Ambience: Intimate, but lively

Lunch: Monday through Friday, 11 a.m.–1:45 p.m.

Kid-friendly: Yes

It’s smallish, and there’s a good 25 yards of gravel between the patio and Perkins Road. Drive too fast near the overpass, and you’ll miss it. Opened in 1987 by Italian fratelli John and Fred DiGiulio and a friend, Richard Cole, this intimately-lit café boasts a strong following from the Hundred Oaks, Garden District and Southdowns contingents. The faithful are addicted to the delicious Italian-American menu developed by John DiGiulio and the attractive, convivial wait staff that brings it on.

From daily fresh fish dishes to classics like five-cheese lasagna, veal marsala and hand-tossed pizzas, this menu far surpasses the term “café” in the restaurant’s name. With a dozen wines and bottled beers, plus cocktails, the bar at DiGiulio’s is a slightly limited but off-beat and relaxing place to grab an after-work drink. To get a table at this popular eatery, you ought to show up early anyway.

The Godfather

Make me a cannoli I can’t refuse.

I’d recommend:

Cambozola & Roasted Garlic ($7.95). This was so good, it was almost a mistake to have it too early in the meal. Soft and mild blue cheese, more garlic than you think you can eat (but oh yes, you can) and a small mountain of crispy croutons. Extra points if you order this on a first date.

Rum Cake ($5.75). You don’t see rum cake on too many menus these days, so I was curious. This unassuming slice of moist goodness hits just the right balance of rummy kick and tender crumb. While abounding in home-style comfort, it could use just a touch more restaurant flair.

I’d avoid:

Ruby Red Trout Special ($18.95). The setup sounded great: fresh trout filet served simply with a brown butter sauce and fried capers, pasta on the side. The delivery was disappointing, however, and the flavor of the fish was subtle to the point of being imperceptible. I found myself yearning for my neighbor’s shrimp Alfredo.

The bottom line:

DiGiulio’s serves up Italian-American classics in a lively and intimate atmosphere. It’s got friendly, attentive service, a good wine selection and a feel like you’ve been going there for years. I’ll definitely be back.

The Pasta Preacher

Tastes great; more filling. What’s not to praise about pasta?

I’d recommend:

Shrimp Fettuccine Alfredo ($20.95). A dozen plump Gulf shrimp crown what may be the most brazenly decadent and delicious Alfredo pasta in the city. Neither rubbery nor limp, the pasta was cooked just right. It was a large portion, but the next day’s lunch was settled.

Chicken Avezzano ($19.95). The best of both worlds, this dish combines breaded eggplant and chicken parmigiana. It’s listed as a house favorite, and it was easy to see why. You can’t go wrong with this one.

Rum Cake ($5.75). We chuckled when this unadorned guy was served lonely on a small side plate. To our surprise the moist slice stood proudly on its own. Sweet and refreshing, it tasted like it came straight from Grandma’s kitchen. If I’d been at Grandma’s I would have had four or five pieces.

I’d avoid:

Arriving Hungry at 7 p.m. Even on a weeknight, this smallish restaurant and bar is as overstuffed as a good ravioli. Our hostess told us 45 minutes, but it was closer to an hour and 15 minutes before we were seated. Arriving between 5 and 6 p.m. should help a lot.

Minestrone Soup ($5.95). I know recipes for minestrone can vary widely in thickness and taste depending on which seasonal vegetables are used, but I’m pretty sure serving it chilled is a universally agreed-upon cardinal sin.

The bottom line:

I love this joint. And I love that you don’t have to keep your voice down. This is a place for celebrations large and small. That said, when the chefs miss, they miss big. Stick to what DiGiulio’s does best, and you’ll have a memorable meal.

Chow Bella

Can Baton Rouge’s Italian compare to Brooklyn’s finest?

I’d recommend:

Veal Picatta ($19.95). I always go with a staff recommendation, and our lovely waitress suggested veal instead of chicken on this traditional dish. It was such a perfect blend of lemony tang with the sweetness of the cream and saltiness of the capers I had to stop myself from licking the plate.

Cambozola & Roasted Garlic ($7.95). This was far and away the highlight of our meal. This is a subtle, soft blue cheese with a heaping helping of roasted garlic pods to spread on toasted baguette slices.

Tiramisu ($5.50). I rarely order dessert because I’m almost always disappointed. But this tiramisu brought me back to the sweet side again. The ladyfingers were perfectly firm and moist. The cream was fluffy and airy, like eating a delicious cloud.

I’d avoid:

Eggplant Crispers ($7.95). I think this dish was trying to do too much at once, and the flavors got muddled. Compared to everything else we had, it paled in comparison.

Crčme Brulée ($5.95). This is the only thing I flat-out disliked. I enjoy crčme brulée a bit warm, and this was obviously refrigerated. The sugar was done perfectly on the top, but the dish was too narrow and deep, and the crčme had an egg taste to it.

The bottom line:

It is so rare that even the highest-end restaurant strikes this delicate balance of down-home feel and belly-satisfying classics, but DiGuilio’s does it with aplomb. The staff was sending off a veteran waitress of seven years during our visit, and we felt included in the party. It’s all the fun of a party with none of the stress of preparing it yourself.