Think of it as The Cabin’s chic little sister. Baton Rouge has been wise to The Cabin’s hearty Cajun cuisine and rustic, salvaged cistern interior since the mid-’70s. No one has rehabilitated the historic homes and buildings dotting River Road quite like the owners of The Cabin, the Robert family. Joel Robert’s new venture in nearby Burnside is no exception.
The building dates back to the 1840s and was originally located at the Home Place Plantation in Convent before the Robert family moved it to the grounds of The Cabin and began renovations. Opened in April, Bernadette’s is a Cajun-French fusion of fine dining that offers indulgent five-and seven-course meals and generous, seasonal ŕ la carte items in an intimate 46-seat space.
The ambience: Upscale 19th-century charm
Lunch: No
Kid-friendly: No, call the sitter.
5405 Hwy. 44, Burnside, La. • 225-473-9000
Thursday through Saturday, 5 p.m. – 9 p.m.
All credit cards. • Reservations only.
Executive Chef Gerard Hemery brings the skill of a European master to the table at Bernadette’s. A native of Brittany, France, Hemery studied in Switzerland and cut his teeth in kitchens across Paris, New York City, and Baton Rouge. And not all of his influences come from the South of France or South Louisiana. Shrimp Kung Pao, chicken marsala, and blackened diver scallops complement the menu’s more traditional Creole cuisine.
Dining is by appointment only, adding a hint of romanticism and travel for those who want to do more than get full. Bernadette’s is for those who want an experience.
Proper attire is required, but jackets are optional.
The Meat Lover
Steak is the new black.
I’d recommend:
Tri-colored, pepper-crusted tuna ($14). Rare and embedded with pepper, the rainbow tuna appetizer was exquisite. Served with a wasabi sauce and quail eggs, the reasonable proportion was delicate and fresh. This has become a popular item on even chain menus, but Bernadette’s does it right.
Steak au poivre ($42). A nice cut of beef served with a peppery, beef stock sauce. The sauce was a little strong, but it did not overwhelm the natural juicy flavor of the steak. It was served with a side of steamed snap peas and asparagus, buttered and absolutely delicious.
James Window cheesecake ($8.95). It was so good I had to ask both my grandmothers what exactly I had eaten. The consensus between the two matriarchs was that it was a cheesecake crčme brulée. In any case, it was perfect.
I’d avoid:
Risotto (side item). It was almost too creamy, too thick. I know that’s the gist of a risotto, but it was too heavy to be served alongside such rich dishes.
Buttered roll (complimentary). Though the bread itself was very good, the melted butter tasted like it had saccharine in it. Just odd.
The bottom line:
The location is strangely tucked behind a family-style mom-and-pop place, The Cabin, but the relaxed staff and beautiful home combined were able to present the features of a sophisticated gourmet restaurant without losing that good old Southern comfort.
The Foodie
Food isn’t what keeps us alive; food is the reason for living.
I’d recommend:
Escargot maison ($12). Not the least bit chewy, these prime examples of the classic French presentation of vineyard snails in veal demi-glace are served atop crusty bread floating on a rich, herby sauce. They died for greatness.
Beef Wellington ($42). Are those shaved black truffles on my delicate, puff pastry-shrouded beef filet? They are. The mushroom duxelle is reminiscent of the Bordelaise crowning the escargot, but who wouldn’t want to remember perfection? Another classic of the trade with another flawless presentation.
I’d avoid:
Turtle soup ($11). I am a devotee of turtle soup. There is nothing wrong with Bernadette’s version of this hearty and sherry-scented soup, aside from a slightly sour finish, but better examples can be found elsewhere. Bernadette’s turtle soup is a bit thin, but they get points for the thoughtfully coddled egg whites sprinkled in the bowl rather than the more typical rubbery, hard-boiled exemplars.
Brie in puff pastry (complimentary). Save room for the many delightful French flavors to come. These little amuse bouches are fine in and of themselves, but the flavor combination lags behind the genius this chef is about to lay before you.
The bottom line:
Bernadette’s is a surprise wrapped in a delight. It is just far enough out of town to add a whiff of vacation to a night out for dinner. The service is attentive and widely knowledgeable, the surroundings are tasteful and romantic, and any meal is likely to go well when it begins with complimentary champagne served in a Victorian sitting room.
The Southern Cooking Loyalist
I dream of Grandmother’s roast, rice and gravy.
I’d recommend:
Duck breast Normandie ($38). Duck is my all-time favorite meat, although I’m just as happy tossing stale bread to them at the lakes. Chef Gerard Hemery gets a “super dab” for his quail-stuffed duck breast. An ambrosial apple glaze punches up the tender, zesty bite.
Carpaccio roll asparagus ($14). This is a perfect starter for the meal ahead. A thin-sliced rare filet embraces crunchy asparagus. A hint of olive oil musters the chewy succulence of the filet.
Shrimp Kung Pao (complimentary). Clear your sinuses with a sample of Bernadette’s fried tempura shrimp drizzled with a fiery dark brown sauce. Save your palate from numbness by trying only one.
I’d avoid:
Spinach salad maison ($12). It wasn’t terrible, just a bit too syrupy. The creamy goat cheese was a mouthwatering contribution, but the hot bourbon pecan sauce gave it an over-the-top afterbite.
Irish coffee ($8.95). A sticky, mint-flavored, mouthwash-colored syrup on the saucer made this common dessert drink an utter mess. Not something you want to handle while wearing expensive threads.
The bottom line:
Before the cold weather comes along, you must get out of the city and experience Bernadette’s. The best part was digesting my duck while sipping a dessert drink on the front porch in a rocking chair, listening to the restaurant host share tales of Chef Gerard Hemery and how the family restaurant came together. Bernadette’s is the best dining experience I’ve had outside the city.
