From the basket of crispy cracklins that awaits new diners at each table to the sweet orange gelee candies that make their bow at the end of the meal, details are important at Beausoleil.
If the atmosphere is traditional, the menu leans toward the contemporary. Boldly sweeping away the longstanding Silver Spoon with a streamlined Creole-inspired concept, general manager Jeff Conaway and executive chef Nathan Gresham left their posts at Galatoire’s Bistro last year to help launch this new restaurant and bar on Jefferson Highway. With partners Michael Boudreaux and Kenny Juban of Juban’s Creole Restaurant, Beausoleil creates a casual atmosphere with a small bar and some serious foodie-friendly options like a duck confit salad, Stella Artois steamed mussels with chorizo and a braised leg of rabbit with stewed mustard greens.
Read below to see what our secret diners thought of Beausoleil.
The Louisiana Purchaser
I’m looking for a good meal that’s a deal.
I’d recommend:
Fried Mississippi Catfish ($17; $11 lunch portion). Served on a bed of rice and topped with a tomato courtboullion stew, this crispy filet’s buttery velvet taste balances well next to the peppery zest of the stew.
Flat Iron Steak ($22). Mine was cooked slightly more than I ordered, but the marinated zest and the chimichurri butter topping of this large cut make this one of the best steak deals in town. Delicious, fresh-cut frites come on the side.
Gnocchi ($7.50). Made in-house, these succulent little Italian pillows of soft potato goodness burst with melt-in-your-mouth flavor. This gnocchi comes in a dish of roasted garlic cream with bacon and peas but avoids being too heavy to eat it all in a hurry.
Not my taste:
Chicken and Andouille Gumbo ($6). My search continues for a great gumbo that’s better than those made by friends and family. This bowl wasn’t bad, just pedestrian. And the sausage was oddly bland—an unfortunate thing that sticks out at a great place like this.
The bottom line:
Beausoleil gets a ton of things right, and the restaurant is still pretty new on the scene. The atmosphere is on the nicer side of casual. Service is swift. The menu is smallish, but all the bases are covered, and I left dinner extremely satisfied.
Le Gourmand
Order your own dessert, ma chčre, because I ain’t sharin’!
I’d recommend:
Classic Cheeseburger with Caramelized Onion ($9.75). Succulent, decadent and deeply satisfying. Its meaty, sweet and spicy flavors linger long after the last bite.
Fried Oyster Po-boy with Spicy Aioli ($10). Spilling from perfectly crusty French bread are oysters fried to a light and crispy perfection. Garlic aioli lends a rare decadence to this familiar Louisiana comfort food. Sublime.
Creamed Brussels Sprouts ($4). If you enjoy the bitter crunch of these dense little orbs of green goodness, then Beausoleil’s version will take you to the mountaintop, bathed as they are in a creamy béchamel sauce.
Not my taste:
Pork Cracklins. Consider forgoing these complimentary snacks if you order anything heavier than a salad. I’m at odds even typing those sacrilegious words. But these are intensely salty and, frankly, unnecessary before a rich feast like Beausoleil offers.
Bottom line:
Several dishes I tried on two visits were the best versions I’ve ever tasted. Even with a limited menu, Beausoleil is a superb newcomer.
The Cajun Connoisseur
I love down-home cookin’ and adventurous eats.
I’d recommend:
Fried Eggplant Crisps with Creole Sauce ($6). This is eggplant just the way I like it—fried crispy-crunchy on the outside, but soft and creamy on the inside. The tomato-based Creole sauce provides a pleasant kick to the eggplant’s mild taste.
Pulled Pork Sandwich ($9.25). I expected a normal barbecue pulled pork sandwich. What I got was sweet, juicy and piquant, without a hint of smoke or tomato anywhere. Stewed down with just salt, pepper and a chili glaze, a slice of pepper jack cheese and house-made pickles makes this a pleasant surprise for your palate.
Chocolate Pot de Crčme ($5). I’d come back to Beausoleil just to eat this dessert: a sort of chilled, luxuriantly smooth chocolate mousse, served in a cute-as-pie cream pot topped with whipped cream and espresso bean crumbles. The coffee is genius—it adds texture and depth of flavor that needs to be tasted to be believed.
The Ambiance: Casual
Kid-friendly: Yes
Lunch: Yes
7731 Jefferson Hwy. • 926-1172
Tuesday – Thursday, 11 a.m. – 9 p.m.
Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.
Sunday, 11 a.m. – 3 p.m.
Reservations accepted • All credit cards
beausoleilrestaurantandbar.com
Not my taste:
Macaroni and Cheese ($4). I had high hopes when it arrived, looking fresh-baked and hearty, but a couple of forkfuls proved the cheese sauce soupy and the flavor rather bland. Not terrible, but the high quality of the other dishes made this a particular disappointment.
The bottom line:
Beausoleil is a spectacular addition to Baton Rouge’s dining scene—the menu is not huge, but what they do, they do extremely well. Nearly every dish was a perfect balance of flavors and textures. The atmosphere is cozy and the service we experienced was excellent.
