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Spatula Diaries: The problem with crab cakes—and how to solve it

Summertime is blue crab time, and my favorite application of the sweet meat is homemade crab cakes. It’s a timeless classic that never goes out of style. But simple as it seems, it’s easy to foul up.

That’s because there’s an art to making cakes that aren’t overrun with breading and binder, but that still hold together when sautéed. This formula, which calls for 3 pounds of crab meat to 1 cup of mayo and ½ cup of panko bread crumbs, does the trick. I like to use lump (not jumbo) crabmeat because it’s full of flavor, and there’s no pressure to keep intact the beautiful hunks you find in pricier jumbo lump. Using an additional pound of backfin or even claw meat helps stretch your volume at a reasonable price while adding deeper texture and flavor.

As you form the patties by hand, pack them tightly, which drains off some of the natural liquid. Grip each cake in the palm of your hand as you gently pack the panko breadcrumbs onto each side. Allow one side to brown fully before you flip the crab cakes. Turn them only once.

Crab Cakes

Servings: 12

2 pounds fresh lump crabmeat (not jumbo)
1 pound backfin or claw crabmeat
5 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
1 bell pepper, finely chopped (preferably red, yellow or orange)
2 celery stalks with tops, finely chopped
1 cup mayonnaise
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
Juice of one lemon
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Several turns fresh ground black pepper
2 ½ cups panko breadcrumbs

Inspect the crabmeat carefully, removing any shells and debris. Place the cleaned meat in a large bowl and set aside. In a medium skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil to medium-high. Add the chopped onion, bell pepper and celery, and sauté until soft. Remove from the heat and add the vegetables to the crabmeat. In a medium bowl, add the mayonnaise and next five ingredients. Whisk well. To the crabmeat, add the mayonnaise mixture and ½ cup panko breadcrumbs. Using a fork, combine well.

On a large plate, add the remaining 2 cups of panko breadcrumbs. Form the crabmeat mixture into flat, round patties in the palm of your hand, about 1 inch in width and 3 inches in diameter. Grip and dredge through the breadcrumbs, gently packing them on.

In a large nonstick skillet, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons of oil. Sauté the cakes about five minutes on one side, achieving a deep, golden-brown color. Flip and sauté on the other side until the same color is achieved. Place on a cookie sheet, cover with foil and place in a low oven until all the cakes are sautéed. Serve with the tomato corn salsa.

Tomato Corn Salsa

¼ cup olive oil
1 cup fresh cooked corn
½ cup finely chopped scallions, green and white parts
2 cups chopped fresh tomatoes
Juice of 1 lemon
Juice of 1 lime
1/3 cup fresh basil, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

In a large skillet, heat the olive oil to medium-high heat. Add the corn and scallions, sautéing until the corn is warmed through and the scallions are soft. Add the tomatoes, and sauté briefly until warmed through. Add the juice of the lemon and lime. Add the basil and salt and pepper, combining well. Remove from the heat. Serve with the crab cakes.


Maggie Heyn Richardson is a regular 225 contributor. Reach her at hungryforlouisiana.com.