Spatula Diaries: Fresh kumquat cake a great use of local winter fruit

Love ‘em or hate ‘em, kumquats are in big supply in south Louisiana right now, overloading backyard branches and appearing in the produce aisle in pint-sized containers. According to the LSU AgCenter, we grow two kinds of kumquats in Louisiana, the oblong Nagami and the rounder, sweeter Meiwa.

I have a couple of Meiwa kumquat trees in my herb garden. Every year, I struggle to use the crazy abundance of fruit that won’t stop coming. They’re like sharks’ teeth. Pick one, and it seems like a dozen more are right behind it in varying stages of ripeness, ready to take its place.

This simple kumquat cake is moist and flavorful and is a great way to use 2 cups of fresh fruit. Enjoy.

Fresh Kumquat Cake

3 eggs
2 cups sugar
1 cup canola oil
1 cup buttermilk*
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup kumquat puree (recipe below)
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 pinch nutmeg
1 teaspoon orange extract
Confectioner’s sugar and fresh kumquats for garnish

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Using a standing mixer or bowl, whisk the eggs briefly. Add the sugar and beat until light and fluffy, about one minute. Add the oil, and beat until just combined. In a separate medium bowl, add the buttermilk and stir in the baking soda. Beginning with the flour, add the flour and the buttermilk mixture alternately and mix until combined. Add the kumquat puree, cinnamon, cloves, salt, nutmeg and extract. Mix until thoroughly incorporated.

Pour the batter into a greased and floured tube pan, or into 2 loaf pans (8-by-4-by-2½) and bake until done (60-70 minutes for the tube pan, and 50-55 minutes for the loaf pans).

Cool in a baking rack for 5-10 minutes, then remove from the pan. Allow to cool another 5-10 minutes. Arrange on a plate and garnish with confectioner’s sugar and kumquat sprigs.

*Substitution. Add 1 tablespoon white vinegar to milk to make 1 cup.

Kumquat puree

2 cups (1 pint) fresh kumquats

Wash and dry the kumquats. Slice each kumquat across the middle, and gently squeeze out the seeds. Place kumquat halves in their entirety in a food processor and pulse until mostly pureed.

Yields: 1 cup

Maggie Heyn Richardson is a regular 225 contributor and the author of Hungry for Louisiana, An Omnivore’s Journey, a new book that explores the history and recipes of eight of Louisiana’s most important foods. Reach her at hungryforlouisana.com.