Illuminated by a bright blue neon sign in a shopping center on Essen Lane is the newest incarnation of one of my most cherished Baton Rouge restaurants: Zorba’s Greek Bistro. On the Friday night of our visit we were struck with the realization that others are equally as excited about Zorba’s return, after owners Dinos and Polina Economides returned from a decade-long sojourn in their homeland of Cyprus.
We also realized that reservations are a must as the space is small and the word is definitely out.
I was grinning from ear to ear when I spied several of my prior favorites on the new menu. For starters I had to have the flaming cheese dish Saganaki. How can you go wrong with tableside Greek pyrotechnics and aqueous cheese? The serving was huge, with four enormous blocks of breaded and fried kasseri cheese flambéed tableside with, I believe, orzo. Similar to a firm feta in both taste and texture, the dish was delicious, but we felt it needed something to tame the saltiness of the cheese. An acidic squeeze of lemon juice was all that was required to tame the briny beast.
A contemporary addition to the menu, the Lamb Carpaccio also caught our eyes—rare lamb resting on arugula adorned with pomegranate seeds and accompanied by sliced kasseri cheese. The small jewels of pomegranate burst in our mouths, refreshing each bite, while the bitter greens were a terrific foil for the luscious, marbled tenderloin of lamb.
Fully cheesed up, we turned our stomachs to the entrees. My companion ordered the Spitini while I nearly danced a Greek jig when I saw Psaropita had returned to the menu. Before our entrees arrived, my companion was served a fortuitous salad. Delicate greens dressed with a piquant dressing and a sprinkling of pomegranate seeds, pine nuts, sundried tomatoes and cheese shavings, it was a welcome surprise.
The Spitini—beef tenderloin stuffed with cheese, pine nuts, salami and tomatoes—was unbelievably good. The heaping mound of lightly seasoned orzo pasta, like an exquisite version of Rice a Roni with its various shapes and sizes, was truly a treat.
The Psaropita consisted of crisp fillo bursting at the seams with cheese, crab and shrimp all bathed in a delightful lemony avgolemano sauce (a traditional Greek sauce made with eggs and lemon). Divine nectar of the Greek gods. As if I needed more, I also ordered a side of their famous Potatoes Fournou—buttery wedges of creamy potatoes roasted with olive oil, herbs and cinnamon. The first bite transported me back to my carefree college days when Zorba’s was, for us, considered a lavish night out.
For dessert we bypassed the usual Greek treat baklava for the more “exotic” offerings of Kataifi and Galatoboureko. Imagine thinly shredded and syrup-enriched fillo topped with billowy, not-too-sweet custard all crowned with crushed pistachios, and your brain will still not perceive the delight of Kataifi. Light as air, this dessert is the perfect end to your Greek feast, but this perfection can easily satisfy two.
The Galatoboureko is a mouthful to say but a very manageable bite to devour. It’s more nectarous than the Kataifi, thanks in part to the orange-infused syrup drizzled liberally between fillo and dense semolina custard layers. This luscious confection should satisfy those whose tooth will not be placated with a mildly sweet dessert.
Dinos Economides and his brother George each stopped by our table and discussed food, work, life and the struggles with daughters who don’t take their fathers’ advice. Our affable and delightful waitress, Sofia, as well as the hostess that night are both part of the Economides clan.
My companion’s work colleague also visited our table to say hello and, as it turns out, he’s kin to the family as well. Soon we began to assume we were part of the Economides clan. Were we kinsfolk, we would be in fine company indeed.
This manifestation of Zorba’s brings back enough of their beloved menu items to excite the veterans yet manages to incorporate a plentiful array of new favorites to endear them to another generation. With this space being livelier and more intimate than their previous locations, our entire experience reminded me of old times, but somehow better. What more is there to say but “Opa!”
