Restaurant Review: Mestizo – Mestizo, Spanish for “of mixed blood,” has been a favorite restaurant since it first opened on Sherwood Forest in 1999.

We know, “Everyone’s a critic,” right? Well, ours has earned the title. This well-traveled foodie has studied the history, cultivation, preparation, science and technology of food for more than 30 years—and makes a mean Galantine de Poulet.

Mestizo, Spanish for “of mixed blood,” has been a favorite restaurant since it first opened on Sherwood Forest in 1999. Although I don’t go as often as I would like, Mestizo is like an old friend you seldom see—but when you do, it’s as if you had never been apart.

In 2006 chef/owner Jim Urdiales and company moved from their diminutive space on Sherwood to their current location on Acadian Thruway. Tapping into his Mexican and Cajun-French heritages, Urdiales’ menu offers an interesting blend of seafood and traditional Mexican that translates into a delicious cornucopia.

We ordered bean dip with wheat chips and duck empanadas to start. The empanadas were little pockets of cheesy joy punctuated with diced duck breast, red peppers and an alluring, lingering spiciness. While they were delicious, we would have liked them filled with a little more duck meat.

The wheat chips, on the other hand, were so good one friend proclaimed, “I’m forever getting those from now on.” A great accompaniment to the wheat chips was the delicate and creamy bean dip with chunks of bacon and whole pintos. Not to be outdone, the corn chips served with salsa were lightweight and fantastically crisp. Both types of chips had been cooked at the proper temperature, as neither was the least bit greasy.

Seafood is the way to go at Mestizo, and the Cancun does not disappoint. Feasting on this combination of a shrimp and crab enchilada, a crawfish and spinach enchilada, and a crawfish taco, you’ll swear you are dining at Triton’s table. The crispy corn tortilla shell of the crawfish taco bursts with succulent tails topped with cheese, lettuce and tomato, and the rich creaminess of the shrimp and crab enchilada is not to be ignored. Not to say the crawfish and spinach enchilada isn’t a noteworthy addition to this plate, but the other components are just so incredibly good.

For those naysayers out there who protest, “Where’s the meat?” Worry not. Mestizo will have you licking your chops with the Vera Cruz. You can’t go wrong with this plate made up of a pork enchilada with tomatillo sauce, a chicken enchilada and a shrimp and crab enchilada. Both the chicken and pork are cooked in a zesty sauce with a hint of cinnamon that’s incredibly pleasing. After his last bite, my friend asked if anyone would be embarrassed if he licked the plate. Considering how thoroughly he cleaned it, licking would have been unnecessary.

The waiter’s recommendation of the Bananas Foster Honey Tart for dessert piqued our interest. More like a sopapilla with bananas, the tart is a nice twist on traditional Bananas Foster. Sautéed bananas and vanilla ice cream are served in a tortilla shell sprinkled with honey and cinnamon. None of us could keep our spoons out of the irresistible pool of honeyed, melted goodness left behind once the bananas and ice cream were devoured.

Mestizo does many things right. In a vast sea of mediocre Tex-Mex restaurants, it is a delicious island oasis of quality “mixed blood” cuisine.

Olé, cher.

mestizorestaurant.com