Over the years I’ve heard a lot of hype about Mason’s Grill. “Their burgers are the best!” or, “The brunch there is amazing!” There was only so much Mason’s mania I could endure before I finally had to try it for myself. So I rounded up some buddies on a recent Sunday for breakfast/early brunch.
We were to meet at around 9 a.m., right when they open, but I arrived 10 minutes early. There were already several cars in the parking lot. We walked in at 9 a.m. and were seated quickly. Thank goodness we were early, because by 9:10 there was a line out the door. No joke—out the door.
Before I had even glanced at the menu, my friends were discussing it in depth. A brief orientation was warranted, as the menu is huge. Omelettes, crępes, benedicts, waffles, pancakes … whew! And that doesn’t even cover the Build Your Own Bloody Mary checklist with its variety of garnishes, spices and vodkas, including one infused with bacon and served with a beef straw topped off with a strip of bacon. Porky, tomatoey goodness in a Mason jar. Have mercy.
To get several tastes of the many offerings, we decided to divide and conquer with orders of the Crab Cakes and Eggs, the Cajun Breakfast and the Breakfast Burger.
When my friend decided to order the latter, his girlfriend exclaimed, “I just hope you’re within driving distance of a hospital today.” The Breakfast Burger is an imposing mountain of beef, sausage, cheese, fried egg and repeat, with a garnish of bacon. It’s frightening in its glory, but after his first bite, my friend said, “I’d get this again, for sure. But the bread is slowing me down. It’s good bread, but massive.” I tasted the behemoth and concurred with his girlfriend: A hospital nearby would be helpful.
Not to be outdone, the Cajun Breakfast was a force to be reckoned with. Two eggs crowned a jalapeńo and cheese grits cake that was then laden with creamy seafood au gratin. My friend wished there hadn’t been quite so much sauce. It was enjoyable but overabundant. The grits cake was phenomenal, with a crispy exterior and velvety interior.
It was served with a sweet potato pancake “side” that was a total misnomer. The 8-inch diameter plate barely contained the pancake, but the sweet potato flavor shone through with hints of cinnamon.
My companion said, “If you put icing over this, you could sell it as a carrot cake.” After that description, everyone had to try the pancake, and it was a huge hit.
Brunch just seems incomplete without some type of poached egg dish, and the Crab Cakes and Eggs fit that bill.
Two crab cakes were gilded with perfectly poached eggs and creamy Hollandaise sauce. The cakes had a very mild flavor, and the crabmeat tasted extremely fresh. So as not to compete with the sweet potato pancake, we chose a crispy side of hash browns as the side item for this entrée. Topped with mild green chilies, each bite of the potatoes was a Southwestern-flavored delight.
Our waiter Chris was funny and entertaining while providing exceptional service. He checked on us often without being obtrusive and kept our coffee mugs filled to the brim.
With our stomachs full, we exited the building through the mad crush of humanity waiting for tables. As we were leaving, we noticed the circus that was the parking lot and beyond. Cars were parked every which way but loose: on the highway, in the ditch, legally and slightly less so. Others were circling like piranha.
We definitely learned the lesson to get to Mason’s Grill early for Sunday brunch. It was a madhouse we were glad to have escaped as we all drove off full and terrifically happy.
masonsgrill.com | 756-8815 | Open 11 a.m. Monday-Friday, 9 a.m. Saturday and Sunday for brunch | (Map it!)
