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Restaurant Review: Al Noor

Our food critic’s name may be false, but the credentials are not. This gastronome has studied the history, cultivation, preparation, science and technology of food for more than 30 years.
Photos by Amy Shutt

An off-the-beaten-path Indian restaurant shines

The old adage “don’t judge a book by its cover” can be applied to restaurants. But doing so might mean missing out on a new culinary adventure that awaits beyond a lesser facade. Case in point: Al Noor Indian Cuisine, once a Pizza Hut on George O’Neal Lane. When the Pizza Hut closed more than a decade ago, this building sat empty. Weeds grew in the landscaped exterior, almost obscuring the structure from view.

But in early 2013, a banner of hope was raised, announcing an exciting entrée to this area: Al Noor Indian Cuisine was coming soon. Shortly after this announcement, the overgrown vegetation started to come down and the former pizza den began a transformation. Today, neither the outside nor inside would be considered deluxe, but it is amazing how a coat of paint, selective landscaping and decorative signage can transform a space.

Lobster Masala: A buttery and lightly spiced specialty at Al Noor.
Lobster Masala: A buttery and lightly spiced specialty at Al Noor.

Chef Mohamed Hanif, who has 20 years of culinary expertise under his belt, is at the helm. Prior to opening Al Noor, Hanif worked at another Indian cuisine favorite, Bay Leaf, and in New York City. The restaurant’s halal certification is proudly displayed, exhibiting a commitment to procuring meats following strict halal slaughter methods as prescribed by the traditions and edicts of Islam.

A dish that deserves attention is the Chicken 65, brightly hued chunks of chicken flavored and colored by a mixture of seasonings and red cashmere chili. Though it’s listed as an appetizer, its abundant portion size—if paired with steamed basmati rice and perhaps some soft naan from the tandoor—could easily serve as a sufficient and exceptional entrée.

Red cashmere chili gives the Chicken 65 appetizer its bright hue.
Red cashmere chili gives the Chicken 65 appetizer its bright hue.

 

A great surprise in Al Noor’s Gosht Ka Pakwan (or meat curries) menu section is the option of goat meat. The Goat Curry offers up boneless pieces of tender goat in a rich, dark, earthy curry sauce. While goat is an unusual—perhaps even exotic—choice for American tastes, it’s the most widely consumed meat in the world. It’s also lower in fat, cholesterol and calories than other, more common meats in the American diet. With Baton Rouge’s growing population of international residents, Al Noor’s inclusion of goat in several dishes on its menu serves as a community outreach of sorts for those new to our city.

As a contrast to the earthy goat, a rich and more sophisticated alternative is the Lobster Masala. The buttery lobster meat in this entrée is succulent and abundant. Touted as a specialty of the chef, the fusion of the king of crustaceans with mushrooms, onions and garlic, all engulfed in a delicately spiced, sumptuous cream sauce, is sublime. This dish alone is worth the drive from more centralized areas of town.

For those more centrally located, the O’Neal area can seem a nebulous no-man’s land. As a longtime resident of this area, I have seen the changes in quality and quantity of dining establishments here, including this delicious Indian oasis. Take a chance and drive a little farther down I-12 to explore the less-traveled areas of Baton Rouge—your drive will be rewarded.

Goat Curry A unique and earthy find in the city.
Goat Curry: A unique and earthy find in the city.

MORE INFORMATION:
15380 George O’Neal Road
755-0937
Lunch, 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner, 5 p.m.-10 p.m.
alnoorbr.com