First Look: Copa Cruzan Creole opens in Gonzales

Three years in the making, Copa Cruzan Creole restaurant opens today in Gonzales, serving Caribbean, Latin American, Creole and American dishes.

Father-son team José and Jake Boriel are behind the eatery, drawing from their experience in the catering business and their previous concepts, Highland Café in Port Allen and Caribbean Joe’s, a popular deli and coffee shop in Baton Rouge.

“Both of those were stepping stones for what we wanted to do with this restaurant,” José says.

“Cruzan” refers to something or someone originating from St. Croix. José grew up on the island, but his culinary point of view is much broader, having been shaped by his Puerto Rican mother and his father, a St. Lucia native. He says his first culinary experiences were in the kitchen of his Puerto Rican grandmother, who would send him outside to pick fresh herbs while she was cooking.

“She spoiled me with rice and bean gravy,” José says. “It was one of the only things I’d eat as a kid.”

Copa’s menu comprises Central American and Caribbean dishes, along with Creole and American favorites. Expect to see jerk chicken, fish stew, pigeon peas and rice, curried shrimp, and sweet and savory plantains. There are also grilled and fried entrees, burgers, salads, sandwiches and shareable appetizers. Fans of Caribbean Joe’s popular Cubano sandwich will be relieved to know it’s been revived at Copa.

José, also a general contractor, oversaw the renovation of the building. Its 200 seats are situated across two expansive dining rooms, a large bar area, a private dining space and an outdoor patio. Live piano and acoustic sets will be featured on weekends, along with a jazz brunch on Sundays.

The design is airy and inviting, set off by warm shades of gray, a natural wood ceiling, wrought iron light fixtures and black tablecloths and chairs. Granite-topped bar tables fill out the ample lounge, where bartenders mix signature craft cocktails using local spirits like St. Roch Vodka and Oxbow Rum.

Along with lunch and dinner, the Boriels also saw an opportunity to serve breakfast. Residents who live close to the restaurant currently must drive five miles north to Prairieville to Frank’s Restaurant or endure thick traffic on LA-30 to reach concepts on the other side of the interstate, José says.

“We want them to be able to stay in Gonzales,” he says. “We want to be that family restaurant, where you can come in and get some breakfast.”

The most important meal of the day is served daily and features Southern favorites along with Latin American and Caribbean classics such as arepas made with flour and stuffed with eggs, ham and cheese, and Cruzan saltfish and dumplings, José says. In addition, brunch is served on Sundays.

The location is a Gonzales cultural touchstone. It’s held several restaurants, including Dalton’s, a popular eatery that served country cooking and was known as a neighborhood hub. It closed about 20 years ago, says Copa shift supervisor Brandy Mullins, the granddaughter of founder Dalton Marshall.

“I almost cried when I walked in and saw how good it looked,” Mullins says.

Mullins says Copa’s parking lot is also where the famed “Shoutout” between St. Amant and East Ascension High Schools got its start. The football rivalry is one of the most heated in Louisiana. The Shoutout, a competitive pep rally now held in the Lamar-Dixon Expo Center, anoints a winner by measuring decibel levels.

“This location has always been a special place to the community,” Mullins says. “It’s just so great to see it now.”

Copa is open Monday through Sunday at 427 S. Burnside Ave. in Gonzales. Find it on Facebook.