I used to be a frequent visitor to Magpie Cafe on Perkins Road. But a busy life has prevented me from going lately, so I was excited to finally return for a lunch outing.
For the uninitiated, Magpie is known for its coffee carefully sourced by owners Lina and James Jacobs from places like Columbia and Ethiopia. My favorite is the cortado: a strong 4-ounce glass of roughly equal parts espresso and milk. Its flavor offers pleasant bitterness with whole milk to smooth it all out. I happily enjoyed one as I awaited my order in the cozy and well-lit dining space.
When Magpie has a crowd, the lunch items can sell out fast. Fortunately on my visit, all lunch items and a quiche from Magpie’s morning menu were still available.
Slice of Spinach Ricotta Quiche
The Spinach Ricotta Quiche was served warm and featured an exquisite crust: crisp but not overly, just thick enough to offer chew and hold the ingredients at bay, and buttery without being greasy. There was a bold top layer of paprika that didn’t distract—instead it offered an interesting smoky note of flavor. The filling included plenty of spinach, ricotta and egg without being too eggy.
It’s been a while since I’ve had a decent Cuban sandwich. While the Cubano Panini wasn’t exactly authentic, it was a respectable and delicious take. Griddled on a panini press, the bread was flattened and crisped. The sliced ham had nice sweetness and saltiness, and I enjoyed the hint of spice and touch of sugar in the tangy pickles. The winning element of this sandwich was the mildly seasoned roasted pork that was succulent and tender. Earthy Swiss cheese and Dijon mustard nicely completed it.
The side salad included with the sandwich consisted of fresh baby greens with a sprightly lemony vinaigrette. But it was severely overdressed, so I abandoned it after a few bites. The premade Quinoa Salad of the Day was a much better salad option. The baby spinach was in equal amounts to the quinoa mixture, creating a balanced grains-to-greens ratio. Raw carrots and green bell pepper offered ample crunch, and crisp cucumber and briny feta rounded out this refreshing, hearty salad.
The refreshing Quinoa Salad of the Day
While enjoying the other items, I nearly forgot about the Roasted Tomato Basil Soup. It was thick and slightly chunky with visible bits of basil. Any roasted flavor was hard to detect, and it reminded me more of a marinara sauce rather than a comforting bowl of tomato soup. It would’ve been better over seasoned Italian bread or angel hair pasta than on its own.
The only dessert available during my visit was the Cookies and Cream Cake. Topped with what I expected to be a buttercream, the cake was instead frosted with a mildly sweet cream cheese/whipped cream frosting that was a pleasant surprise. It featured three layers: two consisting of white cake dotted with chocolate specks and a center layer of chocolate cake. Between each layer was the same frosting that was slathered on the outside. The slice was crowned with an Oreo cookie that turned out to be the sweetest component of the entire slice. The lack of overt sugar was refreshing, and the creamy frosting was a lovely addition to the moist layers.
Magpie’s Perkins Road location has been drawing a crowd since the doors first opened in 2012. And it’s easy to see why: carefully sourced coffee, fresh salads, tasty rotating sandwich offerings and homemade baked treats make an irresistible combination. With the Perkins Road and more recent downtown location, that’s double the opportunity to indulge in all their deliciousness for breakfast, lunch or an early afternoon snack.
Don’t skip dessert! Our reviewer’s choice was the layered Cookies and Cream Cake.
THE BASICS:Opening in 2012 in the Perkins Road overpass area, Magpie Cafe has become a favorite place to hang out and open up a laptop over coffee. But its full breakfast and lunch menus—locally focused and mindful of dietary restrictions (vegans rejoice!)—has helped it become a healthy alternative in the Capital City.
WHAT’S A MUST: Offerings change daily but there’s usually a great quiche (we tried the flavorful Spinach Ricotta Quiche) and sandwich options (tender roasted pork was the standout of our Cubano Panini). Of course, ordering an expertly made coffee is a must.
Our food critic’s name may be false, but the credentials are not. This gastronome has studied the history, cultivation, preparation, science and technology of food for more than 30 years.
This article was originally published in the June 2018 issue of 225 Magazine.
