After an exhausting weekend, we weren’t in the mood to prep a Sunday meal. Mexican food seemed appropriate, so the new Los Reyes was chosen, friends were called and a time was set for our lazy dinner.
Formerly the site of a Las Palmas restaurant, this latest Mexican eatery is co-owned by one of the founders of the popular local Lebanese chain Albasha. The interior underwent a major transformation, resulting in a brighter and more open space. The covered patio is stunning, with a calming water feature that stretches from a mosaic-adorned wall down the center of the seating area. The long, narrow basin flows through the patio, giving most tables waterfront seating. Surrounded by decorative metal fencing and flower-filled planting boxes, this large space is the perfect setting for kicking back. Adjacent to the bar area is an additional small patio with a roll-up door.
Try out the hummus, frijoles and queso blanco with the Trio of Dips.
The menu offers a gamut of starters. A notable option during our visit was the Trio of Dips with hummus, frijoles and queso blanco. The queso’s mild white cheese was simple and best when eaten with beans, salsa or both. The hummus, no doubt influenced by the Lebanese connection, had wonderful chickpea flavor without overpowering tahini notes. It also had an interesting background spice none of us could identify. The creamy pinto bean dip, smooth with the barest hint of cumin, was great solo on chips or with salsa.
Another appetizer, the unadorned Chicken Flautas, tasted a bit flat, and the mild side of queso did little to add pizzazz. A douse of salsa was just what these rolls needed, though, bringing out the nuanced flavor of the chicken.
Onto the entrees: The Gran Chico, featuring a beef enchilada, chili relleno, tamale, beef taco and rice and beans, is not a platter for a light eater. The chili relleno had a superbly fluffy batter and peppery ground beef. The topping of queso helped mitigate some of the abundant spicy heat. The tamale “tasted like tamale should,” one friend noted. “Very delicate masa with tons of meat.” The enchilada was satisfying with its red chili-sauced corn tortilla and pleasant, mildly seasoned ground beef inside. The beef taco was nothing special—typical Tex-Mex fare.
Taco Pescado features flaky grilled white fish with cooling avocado and cotija cheese.
The Enchiladas Camarón were thoroughly stuffed with the most tender shrimp and a mildly flavored chipotle tomato purée that added bright, acidic flavors and a bit of texture. Topped with a ranchero sauce and sour cream and accompanied by the requisite rice and beans, this sizable entree was difficult for my friend to polish off.
The mildly seasoned Beef Fajitas had hints of smoke highlighting the beefiness with plenty of bell peppers and onions in the mix that maintained their crispness.
It wasn’t until I had devoured my last Taco Pescado that I noticed the cabbage slaw listed on the menu was absent, but obviously it wasn’t missed. The grilled white fish was flaky, moist and cooked to perfection. I substituted grilled vegetables in place of rice and charro beans instead of refried beans. The squash, peppers, mushrooms and onions I received were a nice addition as a side or within my tacos. With plump, whole beans, the charro side was slightly soupy with chunks of what I believe was beef. It was earthy and a step above plain refried beans.
Portion sizes at Los Reyes are generous without being obnoxious, and we were completely stuffed at meal’s end. Halfway home we all realized that we hadn’t even considered dessert, but that was probably for the better.
Everyone was taken aback by the quality and flavors in the food. Throughout our meal there was magnanimous praise for the freshness of ingredients and the receptive staff. As one friend noted: “I would definitely come back here.”
The basics: With one of its partners also a founder of Albasha, this relatively new addition to the Tex-Mex scene offers some twists like Hummus Picante and Tacos de Gyros. For the traditionalists, there’s plenty of that, too, in a colorful, quirky and spacious setting.
What’s a must: Start with the Trio of Dips to get a taste of that hummus, frijoles and queso blanco. The Enchiladas Camarón offers tender shrimp and a chipotle tomato sauce, while the Gran Chico will fill you up with chile relleno, a beef enchilada, tamale and plenty more.
Our food critic’s name may be false, but the credentials are not. This gastronome has studied the history, cultivation, preparation, science and technology of food for more than 30 years.
This article was originally published in the July 2017 issue of 225 Magazine.
