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Fast Break: Real-deal wings at Sauce & Bones

Is there anyone who doesn’t love a good wings joint? Vegetarians, maybe. But the rest of us? Perhaps the wing is the great equalizer—the versatile, approachable barbecue offering everybody can love. And finding a new, reliable spot to get it? Major score.

Enter Sauce & Bones, the new barbecue spot in the former home of Dunkin’ Donuts on Sherwood Forest Boulevard. There’s something charming about the tidy, no-frills interior, the quaint wall signs about football and men doing chores. It’s unpretentious. The team here isn’t focused on trendy decor. They’re focused on tasty barbecue and home-cooked sides, the old-fashioned way.

There are brisket, chicken and ribs combos, but I zeroed in on the wings as soon as I stepped up to the menu board. Sauce & Bones has 13 sauces to choose from, available to taste from squeeze bottles with tiny spoons at a sauce bar near the entrance. After a sampling of some familiar and out-there sauces, from mango habañero to blue magic (literally blue, also spicy) to orange teriyaki, we settled on a classic buffalo (as recommended by the cashier), honey barbecue and garlic Parmesan for our 15-wing combo. Don’t judge me. I split the meal with my photographer.

I’m a firm believer in cookout-style potato salad, so among a sides menu of baked beans, coleslaw and red beans and rice, that’s what I picked. And the plate comes with a complimentary honey roll, a flaky croissant-like roll with a honey-butter glaze. I’m in.

When our tray arrived, it was exactly what I hoped it would be. The buffalo had just enough kick, the garlic Parmesan was richly addictive and the honey barbecue had a little bit of sweetness to seal the deal. The potato salad was as creamy as you’d hope for from a place like this, with a zing of mustard to let you know these are legit cookout potatoes. And the roll was a light and fluffy addition, though by the time we’d plowed through our pile of wings and scoops of potato salad, there was barely room left for it. We left stuffed and happy.

All in all, it was a filling, satisfying wing experience and is a new hidden gem worth checking out. Sauce & Bones is at 2696 S. Sherwood Forest Blvd. and open 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday and 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday.