I anxiously watched the transformation of the former bank on Jefferson Highway as it became Stab’s in the fall of 2017. From the exterior, the building’s renovation is a far cry from those financial beginnings. There is a courtyard in front reminiscent of the French Quarter, with an enormous fountain and plenty of seating. Inside, the former bank is unrecognizable.
The first thing I noticed was thesoft lighting and calming tones mixed with the soothing sounds of a piano. We enjoyed the pianist’s playing so much, we chose to have dinner in the bar to experience the ambiance more directly.
For appetizers, we asked our server’s opinion of the Savory Creole Bread Pudding and the Louisiana Jumbo Lump Crab Cake. He highly recommended the crab cake, but said the bread pudding was on the heavier side. With that in mind, we veered toward the Cajun Boudin Spring Rolls for our second option.
To satiate our hunger in the meantime, we were brought rich, buttery rolls served with more soft butter. They were outstanding and hard to resist.
On left: Stab’s take on a Sensation Salad is artfully composed with greens and roasted and pickled peppers stuffed in a cucumber wrapping.
On right: Cajun Boudin Spring Rolls offer a super crisp appetizer with plenty of spicy boudin.
The spring roll app offered a super crisp wrapping encasing amply spiced boudin without a hint of grease. They were delicious on their own without the sweet sauce that came on the side. It was a unique interpretation of this Cajun specialty.
The crab cake was absolutely luscious, with large crabmeat barely held together by whatever filling was ghosting inside. A sauce reminiscent of a Creole mustard highlighted the crab’s flavor perfectly. For a light eater, this would make a lovely and rich entree.
We wanted a salad to split three ways and thought the Sensation Salad would be appropriate. We were told they might not be able to portion it out. Once presented, it was obvious why they couldn’t: The cucumber-wrapped salad with roasted and pickled peppers and toasted baguettes was a stunning presentation. It was lightly dressed, though, and we all felt it could use a bit more umph. But the artful composition is reason enough to order, with perhaps additional dressing on the side.
An interesting entree option immediately caught my partner’s eye: 16-ounce Smoked Prime Rib. It had phenomenal flavor, swimming in a jus that had the same light smokiness. A mild horseradish sauce was a nice addition, although the indulgent meat needed nothing but a fork. A side of a loaded potato, with all its accoutrements, lacked flavor.
A week later, we were all still raving about the 12-ounce Filet Mignon, unanimously deeming it among the best we’ve ever had. I was blown away by the tenderness and supremely charred crust. A topping of fried onion rings was way too salty, but the herb butter was a subtle and delectable addition. Our side of Creamed Spinach and Bacon au Gratin was spicy but overall not as memorable.
On left: Tableside pyrotechnics make a crowd-pleasing dessert out of the Bananas Foster skillet.
On right: Stab’s 12-ounce filet mignon, with a heaping scoop of herb butter and fried onion rings on top
After the superior slabs of beef, my entree of Blackened Fish with crabmeat, hollandaise, spinach and maque choux seemed almost pedestrian. The fish was overcooked and dry, but the creamy maque choux was a revelation compared to the usual Cajun-style corn and added some needed moisture and heat. The flavors, though, were an almost overwhelming contrast to the dainty hollandaise and lump crab.
Stab’s dessert choices are pretty typical, so we went with old standards of Bananas Foster and White Chocolate Bread Pudding. The Foster, served tableside with all the pomp and circumstance of flames and cinnamon fireworks, had a prevailing overt sweetness and too little counterbalancing ice cream. It prompted us to order another scoop to mitigate the sugar. White Chocolate Bread Pudding was highly recommended as our server’s favorite. Light, compact and steaming hot, it was not nearly the sugar bomb that is usually found at restaurants.
The ambiance of Stab’s is congenial and social in the bar, and romantic and subdued in the dining room, offering diners a choice depending on mood. Having a musician is a nice touch either before, during or after dinner. The prices are a bit steep, making this for most a special occasion meal. But it’s well worth the price of admission.
The basics: The restaurant group behind The Little Village did a complete overhaul of the former bank on Jefferson Highway for this upscale steakhouse. It serves a variety of steak cuts, wood-fired oysters, seafood and more.
What’s a must: The Louisiana Jumbo Lump Crab Cake or Cajun Boudin Spring Rolls as a starter, followed by any one of the prime steaks with eight different toppers. For dessert, a server can whip up a fiery skillet of Bananas Foster right at the table.
Our food critic’s name may be false, but the credentials are not. This gastronome has studied the history, cultivation, preparation, science and technology of food for more than 30 years.
This article was originally published in the August 2019 issue of 225 Magazine.
