Why Sauvignon Blanc trumps Chardonnay

For white wine drinkers in the United States, Chardonnay remains the favorite, outselling other whites nearly two to one. It will be flying off shelves once again this Thanksgiving—and understandably so. It’s the biggest of the whites, and measures up well to hearty fall fare, especially dishes with a high fat content. But I’m not convinced. Sure, there are a few dishes with which Chardonnay sings, cream-sauced fish and fowl among them, but invariably my white wine default is Sauvignon Blanc, a varietal that cozies up to a much wider range of flavor profiles. With notes that can include citrus, stone-fruit, grass and herbs, this terrific food wine is usually crisp and malleable. That’s exactly why it excels at Thanksgiving, when the table is a schizo, Sybil-like collection of tastes that can range from marshmallow-topped sweet potatoes to pillowy, savory cornbread dressing to fried turkey to seafood-stuffed mirlitons. There is an endless supply of affordable Sauvignon Blanc out there, so start experimenting. On the higher end is stalwart Kim Crawford from New Zealand, a terrific standby and a great hostess present. The 2010 vintage is lovely, imparting the region’s characteristic herbaceousness and featuring lime and pineapple notes. The finish is fine and lingering. It’s widely available at our local wine shops.