White nights – Grape Crush

With summer heat in full effect, August is the time to explore white wines. But why stop at Sauvignon Blanc when there are so many other interesting grapes out there to liven up the long, hot end of the season?

Each of this month’s wines is unique in its own right, but what they have in common is their ability to interact with food. Hot weather dishes are often simple and ingredient-driven, but those ingredients can be a bear to pair with wine. Think asparagus and tangy vinaigrettes. That’s where wines like these excel. And don’t shutter them when winter rolls around. The Muscadet and Grüner are super with oysters, and the Pinot Gris accentuates a slab of salmon.

Château de la Ragotičre Muscadet Sčvre et Maine Sur Lie 2006 – $13

Muscadet is a dry, light bodied white from the Western Loire Valley (note the map on the bottle), but its name can be mistaken for a Muscat, often a dessert wine, or even muscadine, another category of wines altogether. Minerality defines a good Muscadet, and this one is terrific. It’s well balanced with good acidity, giving it a super range for foods. The reference “Sčvre et Maine” is a geographical one, the part of Loire that produces the best of these wines. Sur Lie means it is fermented deliberately with sediment, providing a bit of yeastiness and complexity in the profile. While it’s a crime not to drink this wine immediately, it’s also fine to age it.

Lois Grüner Veltliner 2007 – $12

Grüner Veltliner is an Austrian white wine grape that yields crisp, dry, light- to medium-bodied wines. For those who steer clear of white because of the age-old complaint that it’s too fruity, here’s one for you. This Grüner is great as an aperitif, and also does particularly well alongside salads with vinaigrette or asparagus. Enjoy the hints of citrus and tropical fruit. It also has great acidity.

Elk Grove Pinot Gris 2007 – $14

While the Muscadet and Grüner are both dry and acidic, this Pinot Gris is fruit forward. A well-received vintage from Oregon’s Willamette Valley, it does well with spicy grilled fare, ethnic foods and seafood. You’ll find a floral, perfumy nose, big mouthfeel and notes of different fruits, including peach and pineapple. Pinot Gris is the same grape as the Italian Pinot Grigio, but few domestic wineries, save ones in Oregon produce it. This elegant wine has lots of personality.