×

Truly Free Bakery offers health food with bite

If you’ve got an iron stomach, count yourself among the fortunate—twelve million Americans suffer from food allergies, a number that’s on the rise every year. For some the food is simply avoided, like strawberries or shrimp, but for others, it’s a hard-to-miss essential like eggs, milk or, in increasing numbers, gluten—a basic component of wheat and a common thickening agent in foods like ice cream and ketchup. Erick and Ainsley Coughlin’s lives were changed by food allergies. Some years ago, Ainsley found herself suffering from mysterious crippling headaches, full-body pains and bruising. Twelve doctors and specialists later, bed-ridden, Ainsley found herself diagnosed with—among other things—severe food allergies, including a severe allergy to gluten, also known as celiac disease. The diagnosis meant sudden, constant vigilance. Almost everything in the grocery store became off-limits. Erick took over kitchen duties, trying to find things that were not only hypoallergenic, but also delicious. Months of experimentation later, and Erick found himself with a savvy repetoire of allergy-free cooking skills that he now uses in their restaurant, Truly Free Bakery and Deli, in Southdowns Shopping Center.

All the food at Truly Free is free of gluten, casein (a major component of cheese), dairy and eggs. Got another allergy like soy or nuts? They’ll work around it. Erick strives to keep everything in his kitchen not only allergy-free, but also as healthy as possible. “Everything that I can get organic, I do,” he says. The exceptions are soy products like cheese and butter, which—while healthier—aren’t usually organic, and the meat. “We source all-natural meat rather than organic,” he explains, “because all-natural meat is better-regulated.” All meat served at the restaurant is hormone- and nitrate-free. And for those seeking to avoid meat altogether, there’s an extensive vegan-friendly menu, including grilled eggplant and avocado paninis with fresh hummus, and piping-hot vegetable chili.

They also cook up weekly lunch specials, like “Taco Tuesdays” and “Pizza Thursdays” in addition to their large regular menu, served all day every day. You can pop in for a loaf of gluten-free pumpkin bread or a cupcake, or stay to enjoy one of their “BR Bowls”—quinoa or brown rice with steamed teriyaki vegetables—in their modest café area.

For people like Mary Alice Olsan, 25-year-old director of strategic and corporate development at I.T. by Design, Truly Free seems like a godsend. Diagnosed as a celiac sufferer a few years ago, she tried getting along without gluten with increasing frustration. Cheating isn’t an option for those suffering from a gluten allergy—as Olsan says, “It’s not the pain as much as how terrible you feel afterwards.” A bite or two of a wheat bun could bring Olsan low for as long as three days, depriving her of energy and damaging her digestive system irreparably.

Unsatisfied with the bread-alternatives she found at health food stores like Whole Foods, Olsan had resigned herself to a life sans sandwiches until she discovered Truly Free. “I was their first Baton Rouge customer,” she brags. An aunt learned about the Coughlins’ talent for gluten-free baking and tracked them down before their restaurant even opened; when they heard of her plight, the Coughlins obligingly whipped up several loaves in their home kitchen. The difference between their fresh-baked gluten-free bread and the store-bought is enormous. “The bread at Whole Foods is too dense, it’s inedible,” she admits. “But the bread [at Truly Free] is just amazing. It tastes like the real thing—I’d be here every day if I could.”

To those not suffering from allergies, the baked goods at Truly Free are a slightly different experience, mostly in the texture: Gluten-free cookies are a bit crunchier, tortillas a bit chewier, cupcakes a bit denser. But the taste is very close to “normal” bread products, a relief to those who are looking to avoid gluten for one reason or another, and the freshness of the ingredients makes a serious impact on the palate. It’s delicious and affordable, even for those without dietary restrictions. “We think of ourselves as the healthy alternative,” says Erick. “A cookie is still a cookie, but if that cookie has half the calories, half the sugar, half the fat and still tastes great, you might as well go for the cookie that’s better for you.”

Erick is working on expanding their bakery items to include southern classics like lemon bars and red velvet cake. “It’s something I’ve never had before, but we’ve gotten so many requests, I want to try,” the native Californian says, laughing. “I want to be able to make all of our customers happy.”

You can check out their full menu at trulyfreebakery.com.