The Bulldog

If The Bulldog—named “Best Beer Selection” last year by Gambit Weekly—is serious about one thing, it is draft brew. This bar and grill’s imported beers and microbrews, all 80 or so of them, are pressure-pumped with nitrogen and carbon dioxide through clean taps for a smooth, creamy consistency. For 15 years The Bulldog has been a favorite neighborhood tavern on Magazine Street in Uptown New Orleans. In January, an outpost of the popular joint opened in the Southdowns Shopping Center.

The Ambiance: Casual tavern

Kid-friendly: Must be 21 to enter

Lunch: Only Friday and Saturday

4385 Perkins Rd. • 303-9400

Monday through Thursday, 4 p.m. – 2 a.m.

Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. – 2 a.m.

No reservations • All credit cards

This 21-and-up watering hole is a relaxed hangout with old school charm. The food is called “grub” and divided into four categories: burgers like the Optimator and the Dunkel, sandwiches like the grilled mahi mahi and Turbodog Chicken, fork food like jambalaya and red beans and rice, and finger food like Newcastle dip and roasted garlic hummus. Patrons order at the counter, and (warning to the cigarette averse) can smoke anywhere on the premises, including outdoors on a cozy wooden deck. You can even request your pint served in a frozen glass.

Turn the page to see what 225’s secret diners made of the new dog in town.

THE REVIEWS

The Beer Snob-in-Training

That’s right. I’m getting there.

I’d recommend:

Grilled mahi mahi sandwich with red pepper aioli ($9.99). The aioli added just the right amount of zing to the marinated mahi mahi, so I didn’t need any extra condiments. The portion was a generous slab that I couldn’t finish after grazing on our sides.

Porter Fries ($8.99). These waffle-cut fries, doused in wing sauce then buried under chili, cheese and jalapenos, are formidable pub grub indeed. The sheer heat demands you wash them down with beer. It’s a meal in and of itself.

Abita Oatmeal Stout ($5.50) or a beer you’ve never tried. The extensive beer selection is the real draw at the Bulldog, so be adventurous. But try the food too, because you’ll need a little something to soak up all the excellent beers you’ll be trying.

Going early to beat the crowds. Unless the crowds are what you’re going for.

I’d avoid:

King’s Nachos ($7.99). Although these are not terrible, you can find better finger food, like the aforementioned Porter Fries, on the Bulldog’s menu.

The Bottom Line:

Baton Rouge’s new version is much larger than the New Orleans original. This Bulldog is convivial with plenty of standing room and an expansive outdoor deck. The menu is not the most diverse, but if you’re looking for hearty pub grub in generous portions, the Bulldog has it.

The Bulldog Fan

When I heard they were opening up a Baton Rouge location, I was giddy.

I’d recommend:

Hop wings ($9.99). The Bulldog’s take on a bar food staple. Served with bleu cheese dressing, celery and carrot stick, these wings are meaty and not greasy, with just the right amount of sizzle.

Grilled mahi mahi sandwich with red pepper aioli ($9.99). Here’s one item you don’t expect to find in a bar. The sandwich was juicy, with a tangy red pepper aioli on a firm wheat bun.

The hand dryers (free). This new version of the Bulldog sprang for some fancy new dryers in the bathrooms. Instead of rubbing your hands under a column of air, you shove your hands into the device, and a blade of air blows them on all sides. Seriously, check them out.

I’d avoid:

Tex-Mex egg rolls ($8.99). I tasted more freezer burn than chicken. And they were so greasy, a dining accident left a stain as big around as a golf ball on my pants.

The Bottom Line:

The Bulldog offers solid bar food, served in a nice wood-lined atmosphere, with a lively crowd. And if you’re not in the mood to eat, the bar has more than 80 beers on tap. There’s a reason why it’s becoming popular with young professionals and the Southdowns crowd.

The Happy Hour Hunter

I’m looking for a new hangout.

I’d Recommend:

Roasted garlic hummus ($6.99). The garlic may be roasted, but these crispy triangles of pita are lightly fried and, like potato chips, severely addictive. The hummus has a hearty tahini-laced consistency. Make sure to use the sambal olek chili pepper sauce for a brilliant kick.

Lager burger ($7.99). This large cheeseburger was perfectly cooked and so moist I hardly had to chew it before swallowing. It’s a little pricey for a sandwich without any sides, but it’s also zesty, meaty perfection.

Cheddar jalapeno bun (complimentary with sandwiches). Softer and sweeter than you’d think, and crowned with brag-worthy grill marks, the Bulldog’s cheddar jalapeno buns are some of the best burger bookends in the city. One bite took me right back to Houston’s legendary BBQ shack, Goode Company. You can order any sandwich here on sesame or wheat buns, but why do that when these unique babies are just waiting to please?

I’d Avoid:

Amber Fries ($6.99). No self-respecting menu should ever describe a dish as “gooey.” Even if that adjective best suits the consistency of the cheese, just lie and say something else. Or better yet, rework the dish.

The Bottom Line:

Maybe I have seen too many of those “infect truth” ads, but the last two years of smoke-free restaurants in Baton Rouge have been fantastic. Yes, both my clothes and my lungs agree. So the Bulldog’s smoke-friendly atmosphere knocks it down a star. Remember, this is not a restaurant, but a good bar with an extensive menu. I wouldn’t bring my family here for a two-hour dinner, but a pint and some chips after work sounds great.