Taming the holiday beast

Among holiday meals, Thanksgiving is the minor league compared to Christmas. That’s because the focus is not just on the December 25th spread, but on the series of kitchen demands preceding and following it. Consider the possible punch list: baked goods for friends and neighbors, hors d’oeuvres for cocktail parties or book groups, easy meals for visiting family members, a midnight snack for Santa, Christmas morning breakfast and beverages, nibbles after the big day, something luscious for New Year’s Eve and a luck-summoning meal on New Year’s Day. For the food obsessed, it really is the most wonderful time of the year.

It can also be overwhelming without a decent battle plan, especially with cards, gifts and other obligations breathing down your neck. One more weekend separates us from the main event, so now’s the time to review.

• First and foremost, secure your Christmas main dish. If it’s turkey, buy it in advance of thawing time. If it’s something like crown roast of pork, standing rib roast or beef tenderloin, place an order with your meat cutter and plan to pick it up on the 23rd or 24th to save room in your refrigerator.

• Speaking of the fridge, clean it out. Toss outdated items, reclaim occupied containers and lose the discolored limes lurking in the vegetable drawer. You’ll have more space, and guests on the hunt for a cold drink won’t be aghast.

• Anything you can make ahead of time and freeze—do so. Are you serving soups? Are there casseroles you can assemble? Many desserts, including layer cakes, brownies and cookies also freeze beautifully.

• Timing is everything in an important meal, so consider in what order you’ll cook your dishes. For example, sauté green beans at the last minute to avoid overcooking. This can take place while the main course is resting, and while side dishes are kept warm in the oven or on warming trays.

• If you’re looking to save money, December 21 is the best day to shop. On Wednesdays, many supermarkets run specials from both the previous and forthcoming weeks.

• Check linens, supplies of glasses, plates, utensils, vases and serving vessels. If anything needs updating, now’s the time.

• When it’s over, make notes. My most valuable kitchen item is a well-worn binder stuffed with scribbled and typed notes about how much I bought, how much was left over, what pleased the crowd and what failed miserably.