Stab’s Steak and Seafood

Our food critic’s name be false, but the credentials are not. This gastronome has studied the history, cultivation, preparation, science and technology of food for more than 30 years.

stabscentral.com
13438 Magnolia Square Circle, Central
771-8181

Baton Rougeans sometimes become too staid in their own neck of the woods, leaving other areas of the parish unexplored. I was pleased recently to take an adventurous ride to dinner not only to probe outside the confines of the familiar but also to show some love to another area of the parish. Our visit to Stab’s wasn’t a total love fest, but it wasn’t a heartbreak either.

Turning off the Central thruway, you feel like town come to country—until you spot a neon sign in the distance heralding your destination. The shopping center’s architecture is reminiscent of the French Quarter with beautifully stylized facades. Stab’s is no exception with a wrought-iron fence surrounding its brick patio festooned with a flaming fountain. Inside are two small dining rooms and a bar with a glass-enclosed wine cellar nearby. The space is lit by tasteful crystal chandeliers with the walls hung with black and white photographs of Louisiana. We were led up the winding iron-banister staircase and seated in the small upstairs dining area. Though our space was cozy, all sound funneled into this area, making intimacy hard to attain.

Perusing the menu, we couldn’t help but applaud Stab’s showing of local love with the inclusion of Jerry Lee’s boudin in their Cajun Boudin Spring Rolls.Though we didn’t partake, we saw them delivered to a nearby table and slightly envied those patrons’ enjoyment. Our envious feelings dissipated, though, when our Jumbo Lump Crab Cake appetizer arrived.

It was less a crab cake and more like an artfully molded mound of luscious, sweet crabmeat mixed with subtle spices and an admirable absence of filler. The lush dish was swimming in a shallow pool of delectably contrasting sauces, one creamy and one spicy. I’ll take this cake over others any day.

As a contrast, we ordered the soup of the day, a piping hot Chicken and Andouille Gumbo that arrived loaded with shredded smoked chicken but no identifiable sausage. More of a Creole gumbo than my preferred Cajun style, the roux was lighter in color with bits of tomato and okra dispersed throughout the spicy, satisfying cup. Despite the lack of sausage, it was a tasty take on a south Louisiana classic.

This is a bovine-centric establishment, but pescatarians need not avoid itthere are many fish swimming in this sea along with a mushroom ravioli for vegetarians.We opted for the beef and fish dishes, with my companion ordering the Smoked Prime Rib with Potato and I the black drum Fish of the Day with Haricots Vert and Smoked Tomatoes.

The pan-fried fish tasted so fresh it was practically flopping on my plate, and the simple beurre blanc highlighted the crisp, flaky drum nicely. But the real star of my meal were the smoked tomatoes mixed with the haricots vert. Earthy yet retaining a bit of tomato-sugariness, I could have indulged on them alone. Luckily, the serving was appropriately restricted.

My companion requested that the prime rib be cooked chef’s choice, and it arrived perfectly medium rare. The crusty exterior had a sweet smokiness, while the interior had a melt-in-your-mouth texture. The lackluster potato distracted from the gorgeous slab of meat.

For dessert we chose Bananas Foster and Chocolate Chip Cookie Skillet. The Bananas Foster arrived cooked in a small cast-iron skillet, making the presentation intriguing. Flambed at the table, the bananas were swimming in a heavy cinnamon sauce that was both gelatinous and oily. With each spoonful, the gelatinous part would ooze off the spoon leaving only an oily banana mess.

The cookie, thankfully, was an entirely different story. Ooey, gooey chocolate chip cookie dough was served parcooked in a cast-iron skillet and topped with vanilla ice cream. My companion declared, “That’s one of the most interesting desserts we’ve had in a while.” It was slightly crisp on the edges yet fantastically undercooked, with an enjoyable sweetness that can only come from nearly raw cookie dough. Crowned with creamy vanilla ice cream, it had my childhood calling.

Throughout the meal, our server had a few kerfuffles. She messed up our wine order as well as our appetizer, which resulted in the appetizer arriving just shy of our entrees. But she was exceptionally friendly and apologized profusely.

Later, while near the kitchen, I noticed something in a pan. I asked a server what they were. She looked alarmed, asking, “Y’all didn’t get bread?” She kindly offered to bring us some to go. I politely refused, as we were already anticipating dessert, but I appreciated her offer.

I chalked this and our server’s other missteps up to just having an off night. I was in a magnanimous mood until I later looked at the bill and noticed (too late) that we had been charged for a wine we neither ordered nor drank. I can forgive a lot, but being charged for something I didn’t order I find hard to swallow.

The prices at Stab’s are not for the faint of heart nor wallet, so bring your high-limit credit card and be prepared for a big bill. After describing the experience and pricing to a friend, I was asked if the cost was worth it. Were the experience and food enjoyable? Absolutely! We left extremely pleased to have dined there but concerned about the disproportionate pricing compared to similar restaurants in Baton Rouge. Would I return if someone else were footing the bill? Heck yeah!