Randazzo’s Italian Market

On a nondescript street in Denham Springs, tucked into what was once a small house, sits Randazzo’s Italian Market. The wide variety of food and drinks available in such an unassuming location makes this restaurant and market a pleasant surprise.

Walk through a small entrance foyer and past a cozy dining room and you’ll find the deli, housing a meat case and a cooler stocked with fresh, housemade pastas for takeaway and a noteworthy selection of Belgian beers. I was confused, albeit excited, by the beer selection, and I asked our server about this unexpected find.

Kyla, our server and the restaurant’s co-owner, explained that in Italy they drink a lot of Belgian beers. She picked up this little-known fact, as well as her future husband, Antonio Randazzo, when she lived in l’Italia.

Kyla divulged that Antonio had always dreamed of owning a small shop where he could hone his crafts of making bread and pasta. With several stops in between, they landed in Denham to realize that dream. 

For a starter, my companion and I ordered the Italian Special Salad. I usually ask for dressing on the side but was told this salad is better when dressed, allowing the flavors to permeate the greens. I went with it and was happy I did. Romaine lettuce was mixed with a Sensation-like dressing, and I found its simplicity refreshing. At first bite, my companion simply shrugged one shoulder, but later agreed it was elegant and unfussy.

Wanting to try not only their handmade pasta but also the housemade bread and pizza dough, we overindulged and ordered pizza, a small sandwich and lasagna. On our Thursday visit, the lasagna was the special of the night. Kyla recommended it over the spaghetti and meatballs but said we could get a single meatball, enabling us to sample it as well. Because all pasta and sauces are made in house and the red sauce engulfs both, we figured this would allow us to delight in every handcrafted flavor. The lasagna, with its firm pasta sheets and identifiable fresh veggies, was a pleasure with each bite. My often-opinionated companion characterized it as “less cheesy than every lasagna in town, and that’s a good thing. It highlights the pasta and red sauce.”

I was also digging the side of housemade bread. I found the pasta toothsome and the dish bright and flavorful. The chef obviously knows his way around dough. Served alongside, the meatball was firm and dense but surprisingly light. I thought I detected a hint of cinnamon in the mix. My companion found the texture overly firm, but we both agreed the flavor was delizioso.

When we first bit into the molto-soft bread of the hefty Emilio sandwich, I knew we were feasting on something special. “I like the bread. I haven’t even [tasted the ingredients], and I already like it,” noted my companion. The proportions of the ingredients allowed us to taste each flavor. “The spicy Italian red pepper dressing makes the sandwich. It reminds me of the old Roma Deli,” my companion expounded—high praise indeed. 

For the pizza, we kept it simple with pepperoni and red bell pepper. On the thicker side of thin, the housemade crust is first grilled then baked with homemade sauce and fontinella cheese. The grill imparted a delightful smokiness to the dough, enhancing the flavor. The dough retained a chewy texture, but after the delight of the sandwich, my companion felt the pizza fell a bit short. After another bite, and on second thought, we determined that the excess cheese threw off the overall flavor of the pizza. Yes … there is such a thing as too much cheese.

The only in-house desserts available were bread pudding and cannoli. Having had bread pudding at so many other places, I was hesitant. Kyla convinced us that Randazzo’s version, made using their ciabatta bread, was unique, but she also told us the last piece available was small. So she supplemented it with a slice of their imported lemon cake. The cake was tender, light and airy with exceptional quality. Though it wasn’t housemade, we were both pleased it found its way into our bellies.  

My companion found the bread pudding’s flavor similar to a cinnamon roll, commenting that it would be enjoyable for breakfast with coffee. The cinnamon flavor was abundant without excess, but the true highlight was the improbably tender bread. The cannoli was dissatisfying, with a less-than-crisp shell and detracting chocolate sauce; however, the filling was moderately sweet.

Full and happy, I asked my companion for final thoughts. “The homemade bread and fresh pasta separates them from other Italian restaurants. That’s what makes them better,” was the answer. To that I say, Sě!

randazzositalianmarket.com
240 Capitol St., Denham Springs (Map it!)
667-4557

10:30 a.m.-7 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 10:30 a.m.-8 p.m. Friday-Saturday