Ragusa’s Grill – Hot Lunch

America’s conflation of the burger and the automobile probably predates Ray Kroc and his fast-food empire, but auto mechanic and hamburger chef is still an unlikely pairing. Blaze Ragusa of Ragusa’s Automotive is channeling a bit of our nostalgic food past with his new endeavor, Ragusa’s Grill, on Government Street. Smoke wafts from the screened-in kitchen of this burger stand attached to Garden District Nursery, sending an unmistakable signal to passing motorists that lunch is served. L.A. has its taco trucks, MUD serves lattes from a converted panel van in Lower Manhattan, and we, oh happy eaters, have a new outdoor spot to fill ourselves with the quick fare of America’s mobile lifestyle.

2504 Government St. • 757-6756

Monday through Friday, 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

All credit cards

Much debate swirls around the essence of a real burger, but Ragusa’s eschews the norm with the Big Ragu ($7.35). Blaze and company mix ground top sirloin with homemade Italian sausage, gently flecked with fennel seed and rich from pork, to form a half-pound patty that reminds the eater more of backyard cookouts than meals served in a paper sack. The short menu and its emphasis on BBQ favorites probably reflect something of the man who made a name fixing V-8 engines. Elegant in their simplicity, quick and firing on all cylinders.

For more by Frank McMains, including blogs from his trip to China, click here.