Portico

Tucked away on Coursey Boulevard near the Sherwood Forest Boulevard intersection sits Portico. With sleek straight lines and a combination wood-and-metal facade, the building looks both industrial and rustic. The large, open, breezy patio makes it a great stop when your homebound commute incites a little road rage.

We arrived on a cool spring Tuesday evening to discover a sultry-voiced songstress with accompanying guitarist set up on that inviting patio. A gas fireplace, with its soft glow, was an undeniable ambience generator. Comfortable seats and a lively crowd completed the scene. All was well on the patio with the sunset, a light breeze and entertainment until the table next to us lit up their cigarettes and we were inundated with secondhand smoke. Any local establishment with a patio can become a smokers’ paradise and the bane of existence for non-smokers. Lucky for us, the winds changed, and we could once again breathe freely to enjoy our meal. 

The joint was jumpin’, and it took our waiter some time to attend to our drink order. But he was so hospitable and friendly, we decided to settle in and go with the flow. Once drinks arrived, we ordered the Sesame Seared Tuna and Shrimp Massey. The menu listing said the tuna came with a dipping sauce, but when it arrived, we were delighted to find a fresh salad of spring mix, cucumbers, almonds, mandarin oranges and tomatoes tossed in a tangy, zesty dressing gracing the beautifully seared, sesame-coated tuna. The salad was a pleasing lagniappe surprise. The generous serving of the shrimp dish arrived with the tuna. Visible grill marks decorated the cream cheese-creamy, bacon-smoky, jalapeńo-peppery shrimp; however, the bland poppyseed dressing was rendered unnecessary given the already luscious cornucopia of flavors. My companion, though, believed that the sweet oiliness of the dressing enhanced the shrimp’s spice effectively.

The abundant listing of entrées made our decision that much more difficult. I had briefly considered a salad, but the carnivore in me took over and ordered the filet with broccoli and purple onion rings. When I presented a special request concerning the steak, a manager came to our table to discuss possible options. He assured me that he would personally see that my request was honored. That’s service. The steak, cooked medium rare as ordered, was a tender, well-flavored, quality cut. As for sides, the broccoli was green but the onion rings were a big hit. The extra sweetness of red onion coupled with the crisp, not-too-thick batter was righteous. I wish my companion’s pizza had been half as pleasing. The All the Way Pizza with red sauce, with no discernable fresh ingredients, was characterized as tasting like a grocery store pizza—and that was not a compliment. The one positive my companion pointed out was its six-inch size, which was meant as a compliment.

After one disappointing entrée, I decided to satiate my companion by ordering cheesecake and bread pudding for dessert. The housemade Blueberry Bread Pudding was soft, dense and loaded with blueberries. Served with a not-too-sweet sauce, it was satisfying with none of the overt, piercing sweetness often found in this dessert. The New York Cheesecake was served with a strawberry sauce that tasted of fresh berries. As for the cheesecake, it tasted like a name brand frozen variety that rhymes with Lara See. Suffice it to say, the cheesecake was not housemade.

As noted, the patio was quite busy for a Tuesday, due no doubt to the performers. As a result, our waiter was occasionally MIA. But when present, he was exceedingly friendly and helpful. And the manager made sure to check on that “special” steak—a gesture I very much appreciated. We made note of the enormous square bar that was situated in both the dining room and patio and the roomy outdoor space that my companion deemed “a perfect happy hour spot with a neighborhood joint feel.”

My companion said, “I would go back for a beer evening or casual quick stop. I wonder how many nights they have music?” We will have to return to find out.