O-Ya-Ya’s – Hot Lunch

In spite of our location in the middle of a deeply fertile farming parish, Baton Rouge restaurants have never really focused on freshness. Happily, this seems to be changing, and places like Chef Kevin Black’s O-Ya-Ya’s will likely lead the way. Located in the rear of The Courtyard Gifts and Interiors, O-Ya-Ya’s is disarming and pleasantly unhurried, more like a slightly cluttered living room than a starchy bistro.

Aesthetics aside, O-Ya-Ya’s makes playful and creative interpretations of Creole standards while also preparing novel dishes. The Andouille and Shrimp Stuffed Eggplant Soup (cup $4.75, bowl $7.75) came highly recommended and began the meal well. The chefs have managed to balance the richness and smoky complexity of an étouffée without the attendant heaviness. This soup is deep, satisfying and subtle.

4467 Arnold Ln.

292-8973

In Maine, lobster is so inexpensive it is served in season at McDonald’s. Our Gulf shrimp is more humble, but when used in the Blackened Shrimp Roll ($8.25) it tastes as fine as anything you would sample on the rocky shores of Kennebunkport.

This is a relaxed and comfortable addition to the Baton Rouge dining scene that focuses on fresh and light lunches. But go early. Seating is limited, and the location can be tricky to find.

For more by Frank McMains, including blogs from his trip to China, click here.