New grill finds its ‘Niche’

Ause Ismail knew since high school that he wanted to own his own restaurant. He’d worked in his family business—the successful local chain, Po-Boy Express—since he was seven years old, and was at least familiar with the ins and outs of the restaurant business. “I knew I didn’t want to open just another Po-Boy Express, though,” he recalls. “I wanted to do my own thing.” He put together a menu and tapped a high school friend, former Little Village executive chef Daniel Kearley, to man his kitchen and help tighten up his concept. And earlier this month, Ismail’s solo effort, Niche Bar and Grill, opened its doors on Siegen Lane. As you might expect of a guy who grew up manning po-boy counters, his restaurant’s menu prominently features the staple sandwich, along with several other Southern classics—red beans and rice, crawfish etouffe, fried okra—all delicious, of course. But there are little touches that set Niche apart from a typical bar menu, details that intrigue. A tart hummus made from Ismail’s mother’s recipe lurks on the appetizer list, alongside handmade mozzarella sticks large enough to constitute a meal. The pork chop is served over hearty orzo pasta rather than rice. The dessert menu features both gelato and handmade baklava. There are Caesar and pasta salads, all the dressings made in-house, as well as a spicy tabouleh salad, also made using a family recipe. Kearley also wows with his daily specials: for example, grilled redfish, pork chop with mushroom demi-glace, mushroom-stuffed bell peppers. Ismail gives him a free hand with the specials, saying, “I think it adds a little bit of a kick, that something extra to our menu.” Click here to see more photos of Niche Bar & Grill.