Miso? Fear not.

Few things on the supermarket shelf are as promising—and mysterious—as miso, a paste used for seasoning in Japanese cooking made of fermented soy beans and grains. Westerners know it best by its role in miso soup, a simple broth interrupted by tofu chunks and scallion rings. A dollop of miso whisked into this soup’s stock, called dashi, gives it its rich flavor and characteristic cloudiness. Flavorful and versatile, miso acts much like our roux, deepening the profile of the dishes to which it’s added. But unlike roux, it’s a bit of a super food, containing proteins, antioxidants and reportedly the power to eliminate heavy metals, improve digestion and stave off many forms of cancer.

So there you stand in the supermarket, eager to give miso a whirl, but hesitating. You think, “what exactly am I going to do with a whole tub of this stuff? What if it’s still sitting there months from now?” Moreover, you might also be wondering which of the two or three types of miso before you is best for your needs.

Like roux, darker or “red” misos impart earthy flavors and perform well whisked into rich soups. They can also be added to the cooking liquid of green beans or winter vegetables, or lightly spread on the surface of chicken or fish before roasting. Shiro or “white” miso is milder. It’s great to try in miso soup, although darker ones are fine too. White miso blended with oil, vinegar and fresh herbs also makes a well-balanced salad dressing. Longtime domestic miso producer South River Miso is a great source for miso recipes. The more you delve into misos, the more you discover their complex composition, and how they can vary according to the fermentation process, the types of grains used and how the soybeans have been prepared.

The trick to any miso is to start with a small amount – (one-quarter teaspoon to one teaspoon depending on volume and dish), because it’s extremely salty. It’s got a wonderfully long shelf life. Look for it on the Asian food aisle, or in the refrigerator section near items like wonton wrappers. Vinh Phat, the larger Asian grocer in town, is a terrific place to hunt for it.