In the Pink – Food-friendly dry rosés pair broadly

Dry rosés are incredibly versatile wines that complement a wide range of foods, including many of the signature dishes on a Louisiana spring menu. Wine sellers still battle the public’s assumption that these pink-hued wines are related to the white Zinfandels of California that were popular in the ’80s. Those sweeter, mass-produced wines were the result of major grape glut, and unfortunately still drive away potential rosé lovers. Dry rosés are largely from France—although there are exceptions— and they are indeed, dry, not sweet. They’re akin to good dry white wines, but they include notes of berry and spice. Some are complex enough to read more like red wines and can be served with many dishes you’d pair with lighter reds like Cotes du Rhone and certain Pinot Noirs.

“This year, we’re seeing some really good dry rosés come out,” says Charles Calandro of Select Cellars, the wine section within Calandro’s Supermarket on Government Street. “The last couple of years have been sort of ho-hum for rosés, so this is fun to see.”

Rosés should be drunk within their first year and served chilled. They pull their weight with cheeses, seafood, sushi, spicy foods, Asian cuisine and, conveniently, Cajun and Creole fare.

Cotes de Provence • 2012 • $11
A consistently good source for rosé, Domaine Houchart’s Cotes de Provence is fresh with good acidity. It’s a blend of Rhone and Bordeaux varietals. Look for the berry notes. There’s great minerality here and a nice, clean finish. This wine is normally priced a few dollars higher, but Calandro’s took advantage of a sale due to a misplaced label on some of the cases. It’s great with crawfish etouffee.

2011 • $14
Sophisticated and swimming with notes of stone and tropical fruits, this nicely acidic wine comprises 30% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 30% Carignan and 10% Syrah—varietals you often see in rosés. Great personality and a surprising finish. Try it with spicy Thai curry, pho and shrimp grit cakes with red pepper rouille.

Pere et Fils • 2011 • $11
The varietals used here are Cinsault and Syrah, and the result is a wine that is quaffable and food-friendly. The pronounced note is berry fruit, and the finish is clean with good acidity that carries through to the end. It screams for bold seafood. Chargrilled oysters? Indeed. Seafood crepes and barbecued shrimp would work well, too.