Holiday Helpers

For advice on what wines to serve during the holidays, we turned to Bill Hounshell, general manager of Matherne’s Supermarket on Highland Road. Fifteen years ago, Hounshell began expanding the store’s wine program; today it’s one of the largest purveyors in Baton Rouge and also features reservation-only weekly wine dinners. In an onsite tasting room, Hounshell and his team pair a wide range of wines with a multi-course dinner.

Hounshell recommended one white and two reds to sample this month, following my rules of avoiding Chardonnay and sticking to $20 or less. He included a bargain Cabernet Sauvignon from a new winery co-owned by musician Dave Matthews, a complex Sauvignon Blanc and a silky Pinot Noir.

Sauvignon Blanc, $19.99 • Sonoma Valley • 2010

Produced by a small winery owned by Lorenzo Petroni of North Beach Restaurant in San Francisco (one of my all-time favorite restaurants), this estate-grown Sauvignon Blanc is a bright and crisp winner. “This wine is delicious by itself but really shines when paired with food,” says Hounshell. Sauvignon Blanc is the ultimate food wine; the grape simply knows how to mingle and dance with a variety of flavors. But one like this does more than just agree with food; it rises up, showing off notes of crisp apple and pear and presenting good spice on the finish. Try it with vodka penne, veal piccata or pecan-crusted grouper.

Pinot Noir, $17.99 • Santa Maria Cuvee • Santa Maria Valley • 2008

Picking an acceptable Pinot Noir can sometimes feel like a fool’s errand. They’re rarely cheap, and they often disappoint. “This one has more flavor and body than most,” says Hounshell. Indeed, there’s terrific earthiness and spice here, but what you notice most is the supple, silky texture. Pair it with wood-fired chicken or salmon or a pot pie with wild game and mushrooms.

Cabernet Sauvignon, $12.99 • North Coast • 2009

“This was a big hit when we poured it at a recent wine dinner,” says Hounshell. “It outsold many of the wines with big reputations.” The intention of The Dreaming Tree Winery, named for a song by the Dave Matthews Band, is to create accessible everyday wines for the masses. Matthews has teamed with former Simi winemaker Steve Reeder to create inexpensive, drinkable wines with surprising depth. This solid Cab features lush berry notes, vanilla and a smooth finish, and it pairs nicely with braised short ribs, blue cheese burgers or a cowboy rib eye.