Finely chopped at Stroubes

For the nearly five-year span between the completion of the Shaw Center for the Arts and this spring, the gutted shell of retail space at the corner of Third Street and North Boulevard thumbed its nose at the idea that significant progress was being made in downtown Baton Rouge. But with the transformation of an old 1950s-era drugstore and soda fountain into an upscale steakhouse, the gateway to downtown’s proposed Arts & Entertainment District finally has an anchor restaurant.

Owned by Commercial Properties and Rick Volland, whose Capital City Grill sits on the Lafayette Street side of the arts center, Stroubes earned some big-city chic thanks to Remson-Haley-Herpin Architects, who created a sense of splendor with high ceilings, a wall of large windows and plush, intimate booths.

The Ambiance: Upscale.

Kid-friendly: No.

Lunch: Yes.

107 Third St. – 448-2830

Monday through Wednesday, 11 a.m.–10 p.m.

Thursday through Saturday, 11 a.m.–1 a.m.

Reservations accepted – All credit cards

Head chef Justin Ferguson’s menu delivers big on beef, including a 22 oz. prime porterhouse, but also makes room for several gussied up Southern favorites like corn and sage parmesan grits, duck braised baby back ribs, and for lunch, muffulettas on homemade focaccia. Your grandparents may have gone to Stroubes Drug Store for their medication, but now you can go to Stroubes and get a little comfort, too. Read below for secret diners’ reviews.

THE REVIEWS

The Cosmo Girl

I want a big city experience in Baton Rouge.

I’d recommend:

Lobster, crab and spinach crepes ($10). This appetizer was perfect for a table of four to sample. It has variety, but is very light, with everyone at the table getting a taste of each. This is a must for fans of lobster.

Seared scallops with pancetta sage buerre blanc ($10). The scallops were cooked perfectly, making this another table favorite.

Grilled U10 shrimp and grits with tasso cream sauce ($18). If you like good ole Southern specialty food, you must try this. The waiter recommended it, and he was right on for the best selection on the menu. Everyone at my table was eyeballing this entrée.

I’d avoid:

Going too early. We made reservations at 8 p.m., which was perfect as people were leaving Live After Five. If you go too early, traffic and lack of parking may leave you driving around for a while. Stroubes’ management did mention they were inquiring about valet parking, which will be the icing on the cake for the ultimate New York / L.A. experience!

The bottom line:

This place is fun and different and reminds you all over again why you were excited about downtown’s comeback. We were seated by a table next to the glass windows facing Third Street and enjoyed a great meal as people walked by with the music from Roux House setting the excitement for the night.

The Third Street Fan

Steaks just taste better downtown.

I’d recommend:

Duck braised baby back ribs with red chile oil ($7). Why can’t more restaurants have rib appetizers? They’re hands-on and easy to share. And Stroubes offers some of the most tender, delicious ribs I’ve ever eaten. These lean away from run-of-the mill barbecue and, with the spicy chile oil, toward Bobby Flay-esque refined man food. Got to love it.

9 oz. filet ($29). Eating more than 10 oz. of beef is like going for that fourth drink. It’s no longer about the flavor, it’s about getting drunk. Good thing this cut is the perfect size. Seared well enough for a zesty, juicy feel, this steak didn’t require any of the fancy sauces on offer, like green peppercorn and gorgonzola demiglaze.

I’d avoid:

Assorted cheese plate ($12). My wife and I indulge in cheese and charcuterie whenever we are in New York City, but our quest to find a good cheese plate back home continues. The gorgonzola was blah, and our otherwise well-meaning waitress couldn’t tell us a thing about the varieties.

The bottom line:

I’d like to see two or three more seafood dishes on the menu, but, hey, “chophouse” is in the name, so you know what you’re walking into. Overall, the restaurant is reasonably priced and a comfortable and classy addition to downtown.

The Quick Fill

I get full fast, so it better be good.

I’d recommend:

Chicken St. George ($18). This crispy, bone-in chicken was tender and delicious. It was the perfect order because it just didn’t feel like a steak night to me. It was also light enough to keep me from getting too full too soon.

Seasonal risotto ($4). This creamy, melt-in-your-mouth rice dish was cooked to a perfect consistency and really complemented the chicken. It’s a generous portion and perfect for sharing, which invading forks will likely initiate regardless.

I’d avoid:

Crčme brulee ($6). This is my favorite dessert so I’ve tried plenty. Stroubes fell into the common trap of making its crčme brulee taste too much like scrambled eggs. The torched top layer was fine, but other local restaurants are much more generous with the mixed fruit topping.

The bottom line:

The décor is intimate and the large wall of windows lets in plenty of natural light even in the evening. Our waitress was a little overanxious but extremely attentive. Eventually, she settled down, and so did we for a great night on the town.