Fall Colors – Wines for the changing season

October is a pivotal month for Louisiana foodies. The break in the heat sparks a change in culinary behavior, and we start to move beyond the lighter, outdoor fare that dominated the stifling summer. There are loads of ingredients to work with: the Red Stick Farmers Market is at an impressive seasonal peak; oyster season is beginning; white shrimp are now in full supply—replacing the smaller brown shrimp that dominate the summer months—and Louisiana farmers are providing more locally raised meats than ever. The break from the heat means a return to low-and-slow one-pot dishes indoors, while also maintaining the grilling we relished over the summer. We’re up for anything this month, and we need a few versatile wines that pair well with the fall transition.

Bordeaux • 2011 • $13

This white Bordeaux is a terrific wine for the return of oyster season. Made from organically grown Sauvignon Blanc grapes, there’s plenty of flinty minerality here to pair well with fish or shellfish, raw or cooked. The inclusion of Sémillion grapes, also organically grown, provides gentle hints of citrus and floral. It’s a well structured wine that highlights a range of foods. Pair it with: Cheese plates, vinaigrette salads, roasted vegetables and shrimp and grits.

Pinot Noir • 2011 • $13

This medium-bodied, good value Pinot from the Languedoc region of France is bright and fun and bursting with plum and berry fruit. The texture is smooth, and the finish is reasonably long. The fruit is pronounced, but it’s balanced by a bit of pepper and spice. Pair it with: Smoked sausage with grainy mustard or extra-thick grilled pork chops with a side of creamed spinach.

Sauvignon Blanc • 2012 • $13

South Africa has come a long way in the last few decades with Sauvignon Blanc production. Winemakers there have started to give New Zealand vintners a run for their money. Off the bat, you’ll notice the Indaba’s good heft in the mouth. It presents nice fruit, including citrus and fig, but also features notes of grass and green pepper. There’s solid acidity here, giving it the strength it needs to highlight all sorts of cheeses, fruit-glazed chicken, pork or seafood and anything fried. Pair it with: Fried softshell crab, grilled shrimp with mayhaw dipping sauce or a gourmet breakfast-for-dinner with ham and cheese croissants or seafood and feta omelettes.