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Du Jour: Bhawan Thapa, The Himalayas Restaurant

When he opened The Himalayas Restaurant seven years ago, Bhawan Thapa figured the fare from his native India and from his parent’s home country of Nepal would dovetail well with Baton Rouge palates. It has worked. The dishes Thapa and his family confect six days a week are defined by well-placed spices and homey, simple preparation techniques. It’s a safe bet that The Himalayas is the only place in town you’ll score Nepali street food like savory, fun-to-eat dumplings. Prepared with veggies or ground chicken bundled in fresh dough, the fried version, kothe, is sautéed until crisp on the bottom. A steamed version, momo, is lighter and softer. Thapa’s substantial line-up also includes Nepalese chhwela, grilled chicken or lamb chunks grilled, then tossed with lime, cilantro, fresh jalapeno and garlic, and lots more.

Thapa moved to Baton Rouge after cooking in New York and New Jersey for nearly two decades. When he arrived, the Capital City showed a penchant for Indian fare, so Thapa figured he’d offer it along with more exotic Nepali cuisine.

The kitchen includes a tandoor, or large imported clay oven which reaches temperatures in excess of 450 degrees and is used to make classic dishes like tandoori chicken. It starts with a 24-hour marinade of yogurt and spices, then it’s roasted quickly. The oven, imported from England, is also used it to make the restaurant’s signature naan, a chewy Indian flatbread that accompanies each dish. A dough of wheat, milk, yeast and water is tossed against the tandoor’s blistering interior wall where it sticks and cooks. It bubbles and browns until ready, then it is buttered and served.

The family business includes Thapa’s son Raz, who says that goat curry is also one of the restaurant’s specialties. “It’s bone-in, with imported Nepalese spices cooked in onion gravy. It’s hard to find a dish like this in Baton Rouge.”

The Himalayas is closed Mondays. For more information, call 295-4490.

To read previous Du Jour features on local chefs and other culinary experts, click here.