Continental Lift

Americans have broadened their wine palates considerably in the last few decades, and today, they’re ordering and purchasing more selections than ever before. But wine merchants say it remains challenging to convince customers to step out of their comfort zones. Many prefer to return to reliable domestic bottles with flavor profiles they know and enjoy, rather than roll the dice on something unfamiliar, says Martin Wine Cellar Manager Ian McCaffery. It’s particularly true with European and other international wines whose labels can seem cryptic.

“It’s still hard to get people to let go and try varietals they may not have heard of,” he says. “But it’s worth it. Many of these wines, especially Old World wines, are incredibly food-friendly.”

This month, we turn to Italy and France for three complex, well-priced selections that are great for sipping and pair beautifully with regional cuisine.

Soave Classico • 2011 • $15

South Africa is a terrific source for value wines today, and Essay’s Chenin Blanc with a touch of Viognier is no exception. The medium-bodied wine features nice floral notes and stone fruits on the mid-palate. Its lingering finish makes it seem far more expensive than it is, and its good acidity makes this wine a perfect soul mate for crawfish étouffée. Chenin Blanc has been planted in places like France’s Loire Valley for centuries. The versatile grape with a lot of personality deserves more exposure in the United States.

Morgon • Crus du Beaujolais • $16

Verdelho is a varietal from Portugal and a real winner. Look for peach and honeysuckle on the nose. Lush tropical and floral notes dominate, opening up to citrus and good chalkiness on the mid-palate. The texture is creamy, and the finish, lengthy. This is an elegant, versatile wine that works well with loads of springtime dishes. Try it with roasted beet, arugula and goat cheese salad, chicken paillard or shrimp and corn bisque.

Barbera D’Alba • Tre Vigne • 2009 • $22

This Malbec blend is dramatic and sexy. Medium tannins expand its versatility, making it a good mate to flank steak or smoked pork chops as well as burgers, pasta and pizza. But its range isn’t a reflection of a lack of complexity or character. There is a lot going on here, beginning with dried tobacco on the nose, and leading into cherry, pepper and spice on the mid-palate. The finish is lingering in this nicely structured find from Argentina. It would also be a nice one to put up for a few years.