Cheers: Festive wine picks

The Thanksgiving menu is interpreted broadly and creatively, but for the most part, it’s about resurrecting the stuff of nostalgia: succulent turkey, pillowy cornbread dressing, and sweet potatoes pushed to excess with bourbon, candied nuts and marshmallow. Sleek, modern dishes might be inserted to keep things interesting, but the lineup is often peppered with things like church-supper casseroles, retro salads and classic holiday pies. The ensemble of assertive, disparate flavors makes choosing the right wines an interesting hunt. It’s wise to choose whites that offer good acidity, but not too much oak, and to find reds that aren’t so tannic they nullify the nuances of the food. Click here for a few you might try next Thursday.—Maggie Richardson