Big, thick squash

I know, butternut squash is probably the last thing on your ingredient list now, but maybe I’m so sick of the heat, I’m summoning fall with fall produce. I finally figured out the best way to cook one of these thick-skinned brutes. While you can pierce it and cook it whole, like a potato, it works best to actually follow the instructions on the convenient sticker. To wit: Cut the squash in half lengthwise, scoop out the seeds and bake it at 375 degrees for about 40 minutes, cut side down on a rimmed cookie sheet with a little water. This method presumes you have both arm strength and a sharp knife. But it’s worth the hassle because the texture of the cooked squash isn’t mushy, like those I’ve carelessly tossed spud-like into the oven.

It is most definitely not the season for butternut squash soup, but I adore this veggie with pasta anytime. Chunks of butternut tossed with penne and a sauce of fresh sage, butter, pine nuts and parmesan are both healthful and cozy and go great with my current favorite white, Viognier.

I also absolutely love a church supperish butternut squash cake with cream cheese frosting. My husband’s dearly departed great Aunt Tit-a-Lee (no lie) was famous for a version made with self-rising flour, coconut extract and coconut Jello pudding and pie filling that made it to every family funeral. It completely rocks.