Bacchus Bistro Bar

There are times when you go to a new restaurant, and afterwards, you think, “Well, at least I tried it.” Then there are those rare venues that restore your faith in Baton Rouge’s restaurant scene. Such is the case with Bacchus Bistro and Wine Bar. Since my first visit, I’ve extolled its virtues to all who would listen.

For the uninitiated, Bacchus sits outside the Home Depot on Highland Road, nestled in the far corner of a strip mall that houses a clothing store, a sushi restaurant and an insurance agency. Inside is a markedly calm, intimate space with bench seating on one wall and a prominent, well stocked bar on the other. Having just left a loud birthday party with techno music thumping, we were very pleased to find affably soft music, lighting and conversations. My blood pressure instantly returned to normal as I settled into my seat.

Our waiter/bartender Tad invited us to sit anywhere and quickly arrived to bring menus and take our drink order. Tad allowed us ample time and space to sink into our cocktails and peruse the menu.

He carefully illustrated the distinct merits of the menu, noting that many of the items are housemade, including the pickles and 14-hour smoked brisket.

The menu is reasonably sized, but not so large as to overwhelm. In addition to the regular menu, guests are presented with a separate sheet outlining the cheese selections with concise descriptions and recommended wine pairings. We appreciated this attention to detail.

There were several appetizers that tempted us, but we went with Crab Cakes and Shrimp Tacos.

Scarcely contained within their delicate flour tortillas, the three diminutive tacos were overflowing with fresh cabbage slaw, refreshingly cool shrimp and the odd—but interestingly sweet—addition of strawberries. It all worked together splendidly on the plate and palate.

The three Crab Cakes each sat atop roasted portabellos, caramelized balsamic onions or roasted red bell peppers, and all were crowned with fresh, tangy remoulade. Although the sweetness of the crab shone through, the overall experience was hampered by the overabundance of filler. While the dish was very flavorful, less filler would have heightened it.

For entrees, the Shrimp Perry and Boudin Stuffed Chicken won our favor. The Shrimp Perry was a very reasonably sized portion of angel hair pasta with sauteed shrimp, red and yellow bell peppers, olive oil and, according to the menu, tomato. The last ingredient was indiscernible but ultimately unmissed. The dish was delicate yet satisfying, with a sprinkling of black pepper that worked to enhance the sweetness of the shrimp and satisfy my and my companion’s taste buds. To my delight, the vegetable side dish was a delectable smothered cabbage with accents of smoky bacon—a fortuitous and welcome surprise.

The Boudin Stuffed Chicken comprised chicken thighs stuffed with a spicy housemade boudin then wrapped in bacon and finally slathered with a mushroom cream sauce that united everything deliciously. The entirety of the earthy components wrought an especially compelling dish. The side of creamed spinach was another surprise with a very light hand on the cream and butter that my companion duly noted.

For dessert there were only two options: Zulu Bread Pudding or a brownie topped with ice cream. We chose the bread pudding, as I am apparently destined to find that on every Baton Rouge menu. Let me say, if destiny has chosen bread pudding for all of my future dessert endeavors, then may they all be like this.

The soft bread was visibly swirled with melted chocolate and was neither dense nor overly cinnamon-y, the curse of many a pudding. It was served swimming, yet not drowning, in what was described as a rum/Chambord/caramel sauce. The discreet sweetness of the sauce along with the cool vanilla ice cream created a perfect marriage of flavors. My companion heralded it as the highlight of the meal and one of the best we’ve ever had. I did not disagree.

Bacchus is the epitome of a hidden gem. From the ambiance to the friendly, accommodating staff, this jewel is worth seeking out any night you need to kick back and relax. It is a place where you will want to linger—a rare space in which to enjoy a quiet drink and a leisurely meal. And linger we did. After two carefree hours, we thought it time to go. But we were the only ones: The patrons who were there upon our arrival were still enjoying themselves. I can’t say that I blamed them.

Bridget Robert at Bacchus provided suggestions on wine pairings for some of the items featured in this month’s review:
Shrimp Tacos: Ponzi Pinot Gris, Oregon. Ponzi’s island fruit flavors mingle with the pico de gallo and the Gulf shrimp.
Crab Cakes: Joseph Drouhin St. Veran, Burgundy, France. This old world Chardonnay has notes of citrus and is crisp and earthy enough to blend well with the rich remoulade.
Shrimp Perry: St. Supery Sauvignon Blanc, Napa, Calif. A clean, crisp Sauvignon Blanc with bountiful citrus flavors that work perfectly with the shrimp and fresh bell peppers.
Boudin Stuffed Chicken: Markham “1879” Blend, Napa, Calif. This is a blend of seven varietals providing spicy fruit flavors with aromas of tobacco and dark fruit.