Acapulco Mexican Grill – Hot Lunch

Acapulco on North Boulevard downtown is one of the fruits of the latest influx of foreign-born eaters and chefs from points distant, and it is a simple place. The menu consists of fewer than 20 advertised items. The food is served on disposable plates, with cutlery wrapped in plastic with tiny salt and pepper packets. The tables are reminiscent of a national sandwich chain, but the combined effect is perfect.

321 North Blvd • 382-3939

Monday through Wednesday, 11 a.m. – 3 p.m. • Thursday through Saturday, 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.

All credit cards

This is not typical Tex-Mex fare, slathered in processed cheese and broiled into an undifferentiated whole. Acapulco’s cuisine is the sort of thing you would get from a food cart in Jalisco or a taqueria in East L.A. It might not be wholly familiar, but it is exceptional in its straightforward emphasis on inexpensive staple food served on the go. Try the barbacoa plate ($6.99) for an example of how slow-cooked pork shoulder is a food without parallel, or their fat, hand-rolled pork tamales ($1.99) for a blast of Tejano border radio nostalgia. Eat there now and see why the legions of south-of-the-border construction workers currently rewriting our skyline will be lining up behind you.

For more by Frank McMains, including blogs from his trip to China, click here.