Bin 77 – On a corner within Perkins Rowe, surrounded by retail establishments, sits Bin 77.

On a corner within Perkins Rowe, surrounded by retail establishments, sits Bin 77. A respite from the frenzy of the shopping masses, Bin 77 is a small plates–wine bar with an inviting patio and softly lit interior. There is an ample bar in the center of the space and a wall of retail bottles displayed at the back should you particularly enjoy that Pinot Noir you had with your meal. The interior color theme is weighted heavily with purple, so much so that it might make doves cry and Prince proud, yet it all works.

We stopped by for dinner on a Thursday evening and were seated promptly. There was an infectious post-work blithesomeness among the patrons, due no doubt to the generous happy hour specials. Weekdays from 5 to 7 p.m. they offer a “$7 until 7 Special” that includes signature cocktails, select wines and flatbreads, all for $7 each. After seeing the table next to us enjoying the Smoked Salmon and the Prosciutto, Fig and Bacon flatbreads, we quickly decided to indulge in one as well. Luckily we beat the clock and got the Korean BBQ Pulled Pork Flatbread before the deadline.

I’ve not had much Korean barbecue, but this tasted more Southern or Southwestern U.S. than Asian. Not to say the meat wasn’t tasty—it was. Sweet with subtle heat, the pork was tender and delectable. The bread was cracker-thin and on its own tasted like a communion wafer, but it served as an acceptable delivery method for the pork and sriracha blue cheese slaw. The bread did double duty as a palate cleanser when I needed to ascertain the subtle differences between two red wines.

This is a wine bar, after all, and they will allow you to sample anything on the menu before ordering. Just don’t go crazy getting your drunk on with samples. This is a classy joint. 

As we awaited our next course, I noticed some activity at the back bar that piqued my curiosity. When I inquired with our waitress, she explained that every Thursday, from 7 to 9 p.m., they host a free wine tasting—a little lagniappe on which patrons can imbibe. On this Thursday, they were sampling French wines.

I’m a real sucker for cheeks. Veal, pig, fish … I love them all. So when I spied Braised Veal Cheeks on the menu, I had to have them. The ample portion of meat was super-tender and decadent, leading my companion to attest, “I don’t think I’ve ever had a better cut of veal cheek.” The veal demi-glacé was pleasingly rich and enhanced beautifully by an Oregon Pinot. After we argued over who would take the last piece, I took charge and gobbled it up. This last, treasured bite reminded me of the best Sunday pot roast I’ve ever had, times 10. 

Wanting to foil some of the richness of the previous dishes, I ordered the fish of the day—Gulf flounder. The aroma was mouthwatering and the presentation first-rate, as the fish was topped with a cool avocado salsa and arranged on an arugula and heirloom tomato salad. I was stunned. Heirloom tomatoes in Perkins Rowe?!? Completely unexpected. Once my shock subsided, I was delighted by the fresh, flaky fish, the piquant flavor of the salad dressing and the artistry of the salsa bringing it all harmoniously together. 

My companion ordered the Lamb Chops with a side of Butternut Squash. The minimal adornment of the squash allowed the inherent sweetness of this vegetable to shine through. The lamb chops’ juicy medium-rare interior and crusty, Mediterranean herb-flavored exterior were wonderful alone, rendering the accompanying sauces unnecessary. 

There seem to be only three desserts allowed in Baton Rouge: bread pudding, cheesecake and crčme brűlée. Bin 77 offered 2˝ of the three. We were not looking forward to the bread pudding, because, frankly, we’re sick of it. (Editor’s note: Our restaurant reviewer has tried the bread pudding at eight of the last 14 restaurants reviewed. Most featured blueberries.) But this was no ordinary showing.

Bin 77’s version arrived in the round with a very tasty brittle and a subtly sweet, atypical sauce, as well as a vanilla bean whipped cream. The pudding was more than passable; it was superb. The other 1˝ of the city’s allowable desserts was a Crčme Brűlée Cheesecake. A perfectly creamy surprise with a crisp, burnt sugar top, it was served with an unidentifiable fruit purée (guava (?), strawberry (?), prickly pear cactus (?!)). We were stumped as to the fruit, and sadly, we forgot to ask. But it was tart, sweet and very complementary to the cheesecake. We wanted to dislike the desserts, but we very much enjoyed both. Curse you, Bin 77!

There is much to enjoy about this cozy spot, but room is not one of them. We both found the tables uncomfortably close together, making movement challenging. Though the setting may entice a lovers’ tryst, just make sure it doesn’t escalate into a lovers’ quarrel, as there’s no room for that here. One final note about service: Our server Kaitlin was excellent and knowledgeable about the wines and which paired best with what dishes. She’s served us in the past, and we have always enjoyed her extreme friendliness, personable nature and witty attitude. She’s a real asset to an establishment where knowledge and attitude are a necessity.

10111 Perkins Rd. | 763-2288 | Open 11 a.m. Monday-Saturday | bin77.com