Soup secrets

Like any self-respecting Louisiana food lover should, you probably have a gumbo recipe in your arsenal, but how often do make straight-up soups? The answer should be real often, because soups are not only economical and convenient, they are a fabulous template for creativity. Black bean, vegetable beef, potato with dill and creamy butternut squash sound simple, but prepared correctly, they can be complex and luscious. Best of all, you can make them without being joined at the hip to recipes; just follow three important principles:

Start by sautéing chopped aromatic vegetables until they’re just soft. Remember, they’ll continue cooking when you add liquid and other ingredients, so begin by sweating them. Leeks, onions, celery, carrots and garlic make an infallible beginning, even if you’re not sure where you’re going to end up. Toss in a bay leaf and salt and pepper to ensure this first layer of flavor is at its best.

Plenty of soups are made with water, including Julia Child’s famed Vichysoisse and my own grandfather’s beloved ham vegetable soup. But in general, a good stock is what gives soup structure and body. Nearly everything else is ornamentation. We’d all love to have freezers full of homemade chicken, beef, veal, seafood and vegetable stocks, but when you’re fresh out, turn to one of several good varieties on the market. Don’t skimp. The difference between an “expensive” broth and a cheap one isn’t all that much, especially when you’re making an affordable dish.

The biggest mistake folks make in preparing soups is overcooking individual ingredients. When you add egg noodles to chicken noodle soup, turn the heat off. Be mindful that peas cook faster than most other vegetables, so add them last to a pot of vegetable soup. Don’t boil cream and milk. And add crab and shrimp at the last possible second. Things lose flavor when they’re cooked to death and remember soups will usually be subjected to reheating.