Balancing Act – Grape Crush

October is one of our region’s most satisfying culinary months, thanks to a rich supply of fall produce, the merciful emergence of cool temperatures and an energetic cooking style defined by grills, crowds and flavor. Several reds with vast pairing possibilities are available at this time of year. “These are great food wines,” says Bill Hounshell of Matherne’s Supermarket. “And they do particularly well with our cuisine.” Neither too fruity nor too tannic, they meet a range of seasonal foods from smoked brisket and Boston butt to sensuous, Mediterranean braises.

Housley’s Century Oak Winery

Old Vine Zinfandel • 2008

Lodi – Inez’s Vineyard • $15

Cabernet Sauvignon • 2008

Lodi – Judy’s Vineyard • $15

Value is the name of the game with these two selections from Housley’s Century Oak Winery, which produces wines from grapes grown in the Acampo, Lodi and Woodbridge regions of California. The 2008 Zinfandel presents soft notes of anise and fruit and solid but not overpowering tannins. It begs for an Asian pot roast or grilled, spice-rubbed baby back ribs. The winery’s 2008 Cab features notes of wood and leather, good mouth feel and a solid finish that is excellent with a strip or braised short ribs.

Tolosa

Syrah • 2007

Edna Valley • $20

This lovely Syrah is worth its price tag and more. There’s great structure here, and a range of flavors from berries and plums to white pepper and spice. Look beyond Syrah’s classic mate, lamb, and pair this yummy fall red with bold, rich dishes, like stuffed flank steak, ropa vieja or pork barbacoa.

Altos de Luzon

Jumilla • 2006

Spain • $14

Altos de Luzon’s Jumilla gets another nod from 225 this month for its lovely balance of jammy fruit, hints of oak, tobacco and solid tannins. Hounshell has paired it with tomato-based lamb stew with olives, oranges and smoked paprika during one of Matherne’s regular wine dinners. It’s also great with grilled steak, pork, and my favorite, a medium-rare hamburger made from filet trimmings.