Ready for pairing

September means plump, sweet white shrimp from the Gulf of Mexico, the return of tailgating and the last few weeks of lingering heat. We need wines that fit these conditions and pair neatly with the foods of late summer. These three selections shine. List prices are subject to change.

Marques de Caceres

Deusa Nai • 2010

Albarińo • $15

Lovers of white wine have long gravitated to the Spanish/Portugese varietal Albarińo/Alvarinho for its luscious, old-world complexity and food-friendliness. But as good as Albarińos are in general, this one stands tall. The green-golden hue reveals a blast of stone fruit—notably peach—a creamy texture and a silky finish. A great cheese wine, it also pairs nicely with bacon-wrapped shrimp.

Hiedler

Loess • 2010

Grüner Veltliner • $16

The Austrian varietal Grüner Veltliner is a must-have this month, when warm weather outstays its welcome. The flip side of our tropical climate is an enviable second round of fresh local tomatoes, which scream for dishes like Caprese salad or tomato tartlets with fresh goat cheese. Such dishes require a wine that adapts to all that acidity, while still remaining complex. Hiedler’s lovely “Loess” reveals apple and citrus off the bat then exits with a neat, clean finish.

Vietti

Tre Vigne • 2009

Barbera d’Asti • $18

What’s noticeable right away about this medium-bodied Italian varietal is its versatility. Sure, it’s grill-friendly, but its acidity makes it a winning shrimp Diablo mate or a hearty salad wine. There’s good minerality here, hints of cherry and sturdy tannins that won’t overpower. Have fun with this crowd-pleaser.