The Meat Men Cometh

There are certain times in a home cook’s life when it is imperative to have a relationship with the guy behind the meat counter. The holidays are one, when the elegance and largesse required by big family dinners are satisfied by a neatly trimmed standing rib roast, rack of lamb or crown roast of pork. Experimenting with new recipes is another occasion, when ingredient lists have the weekend chef hunting for loose Italian sausage or pork tenderloin precisely butterflied. Then there is the blessed arrival of grill season this month, a time when a steak cut to a certain thickness makes the difference between a solid dinner and an exceptional one.

Indeed, the meat counter is the place in a supermarket where customers, especially foodies, search out interaction. “It’s really about giving people exactly what they want,” says Calvin Lindsley, owner of Calvin’s Bocage Market. “I consider these guys a dying breed since you’re seeing so many big box stores selling meat trimmed offsite.”

The small cadre of meat cutters at work in Baton Rouge represent years of passion and experience, often gained first in on-the-job informal apprenticeships. Lindsley, who worked as a meat cutter at his supermarket before buying it 16 years ago, calls this role invaluable. “It’s the position that’s hardest to fill in the grocery business,” he says. “I’d be in big trouble without my guys.”

Calvin’s Bocage Market

For 22 years, Eddie Holiday has been trimming specialty cuts at this Bocage grocery, with second man Derrick Keys now at his side. “We have a lot of customers who call ahead and want to have something cut and ready for them,” says Lindsley. Holiday and Keys can practically predict what many of them will request. They also take the lead on creating the grocery’s signature smoked and prepared meats, like flank steak pinwheels and stuffed pork chops. calvinsbocage.com

Calandro’s Supermarket

Calandro’s Government Street meat counter is staffed by manager Pete Carmona, Leo Carlino and James McCubbin. Carmona has nearly 34 years behind the counter, and he’s watched his craft transition from the more rigorous breaking down of sides of beef to trimming the everyday and specialty cuts that customers demand. At this 70-year-old store, that could mean older patrons who want small portions or younger families with new world recipes in hand. Carmona’s best advice for the grilling season? “If you buy prime steaks, don’t marinate them. Just use salt and pepper and maybe a little butter.” calandros.com

Matherne’s Supermarket

At this Highland Road neighborhood grocery, a father-son team mans the meat counter. Wilfred “Skipper” Kendricks, Sr. has more than 40 years of experience, and it was his pure enjoyment of the craft that led his son, Wilfred “Will”

Kendricks, Jr., to also embrace it, says Will. They worked together at Albertson’s before each moved to Matherne’s in the last two years. “It’s all about the precision and presentation,” says Will. “The look of the cut is really important.” mathernes.com

Bet-R Store

A meat cutter since 1949, Bruce Hernandez came out of retirement to work at the Bet-R Store in 2005, where he and fellow veteran meat cutter Willie Tate created a meat counter appealing to the store’s diverse demographic. Alongside premium cuts are soul food staples like “seven” steaks and gravy steaks. Hernandez says he’s appropriately fussy every time he lowers the bone saw, demanding smooth, errorless cuts.

Whole Foods Market

Behind the lush, expansive counter at Whole Foods Market, Cardel Knox represents a younger generation of meat cutters. He moved into the profession after working in the kitchens of Juban’s and Fleming’s and dabbling in culinary school. At Whole Foods, Knox guides patrons through the proper preparation of trendy cuts, like the market’s buffalo steaks, dry-aged ribeyes and its vast sausage varieties, made by Knox and the store’s other team members. His favorite value cut? “Sirloin. It’s really lean, but has a lot of flavor.” wholefoodsmarket.com

Maxwell’s Market

Founder Ron Lewis and his team stock the counters at Maxwell’s three locations with beef, chicken, pork, veal, lamb and seafood that must meet specific requirements before landing on the ice. For example, chicken is never frozen and arrives from regional farms several times a week. Meanwhile, the beef is only USDA prime or choice and must meet certain requirements for marbling. It’s also aged on site for up to 21 days, a process that breaks down natural enzymes and helps tenderize it. maxwells-market.com