Rule breakers – Grape Crush

A South African Sauvignon Blanc mimicking a Sancerre. A Beaujolais that’s not nouveau. A Malbec from France, not Argentina. Our May wines are mischievous and reveal themselves in surprising, satisfying ways. These are solid mates for this month’s lush bounty of summer regional produce, steamy climes and busy grills, but you’ll want to drink them year round. Prices are subject to change.

NEIL ELLIS

Sauvignon Blanc • 2009

“Sincerely” • $10

I’m a sucker for Sauvignon Blanc, but this one from South Africa is a tribute to the Sauvignon Blanc of the Loire Valley, Sancerre, and it nicely echoes that wine’s crisp minerality and punchy acidity. There’s an explosion of citrus as well—namely lime—and winning herbaceous notes. A great value, it is a terrific opener for a Mother’s Day brunch or a graduation gathering. Try with smoked salmon, oysters, shrimp remoulade or one of those hot, melty brie en croute concoctions. “Think ceviche,” says Martin Wine Cellar Manager Ian McCaffery.

CHÂTEAU THIVIN

Côte de Brouilly • 2009 • $21

McCaffery says 2009 was a home run for French wine-making, “and Beaujolais was no exception.” But unlike the more familiar Beaujolais Nouveau, this example of Cru Beaujolais shows the big fruit and complexity that can be achieved from small production wines produced from 80-to-100-year-old vines. There is huge berry fruit here, and replacing the sharp edges of Beaujolais Nouveau is silky texture. Try with a lamb and feta burger, blueberry pork loin or orecchiette pasta with Italian sausage.

CLOS LA COUTALE

Cahors • 2008 • $15

Another exceptional value wine, this one features 80% Malbec and 20% Merlot and hails from the Cahors in southwest France. It is muscular with solid tannins, but presents the earthiness, minerality and terroir you expect from a French wine, says McCaffery. This is your summertime wine for sumptuous but simply grilled red meats, especially beef and lamb.