Valentine tradition

Soda fountains all over the country, including ones like Griffon’s Drug Store in Baton Rouge, used to make a wildly popular frothy drink born in New York called an egg cream, which is made with neither milk nor cream. Served in a tall glass with a straw, the frothy, sudsy drink was at once refreshing and sweet, achieved by a simple and inexpensive ingredient list: milk, chocolate syrup and soda water. As Americans prospered after World War II and ice cream became the basis for soda shop concoctions, egg creams slowly fell out of favor, but they’ve always lingered on the periphery and remained interesting to foodies and nostalgia geeks. This is fun drink to resurrect for Valentine’s Day, especially for someone who might remember it.

Assembling an egg cream takes just a little practice. Pour equal parts milk and soda water into a tall glass, beginning with the milk. Make sure it’s really, really cold. Slowly, add very fresh soda water, pouring into the center of the milk, effectively creating a top layer of soda. Then add two large spoonfuls of chocolate syrup by lowering the spoon and its chocolate all the way into the bottom of the glass and stirring just enough to color the milk layer. In other words, try not to disturb the suds on top. Serve with a straw and enjoy.